Among wine drinkers, Argentina’s Uco Valley is almost synonymous with Malbec. Malbec’s growth, largely driven by international demand, has been heroic–more than 800% since 2004. The mountainous terrain allows this dark-skinned, intensely fruity variety to produce wines that also show elegant floral aromas and firm acidity.
The emergence of Malbec as Argentina’s principal grape has put the squeeze on other black varieties, including Merlot. But Argentine Merlot can also be fresh and evocative, especially when the vines are allowed to occupy the best high-altitude sites.
Merlot often appears as a minor blending grape in premium Bordeaux-style wines from Argentina’s most famous producers. But for this #MerlotThursday, I was looking for the pure stuff: 100% Merlot. (Preferably under $20 so I could also grab a couple of bottles of Cava and some party food.)
I found it in Portillo, the third label of Bodegas Salentein. Salentein was one of the pioneering wineries in the Mendoza province. The vineyards on its collection of estates are located between 3,500 and 5,600 feet. From their entry-level varietal wines (Portillo and Killka) to the cellar-worthy Gran Valle de Uco Blend, their focus is on expressive red wines from these high-altitude sites.
Bottled under screw cap, the 2020 Portillo Merlot pours up a deep ruby color with a thin brick-ish rim. Pronounced aromas of ripe red plum, red cherry, strawberry jam. Fresh-ground spices–black peppercorn, ginger, and dark cinnamon–add aromatic complexity. There’s some aged character here, too (air-cured beef and mocha) and a whiff of cut leafy greens (kale or chard).
After that intriguing, grocery-list nose, the first sip feels rather short and juicy: Sour red cherries and stewed cranberry. With gentle tannins and a medium body, the alcoholic dryness is what asserts itself most on the palate. This is the sort of moderately structured, fruit-driven red wine that tends to disappear fast when left open next to cheese tray at a potluck.
Salentein’s fruit comes from low-yielding vines in the high Andean foothills. Soils vary, but in general they are alluvial and sandy. The combination of long, sunny days and cool mountain breezes–so important for ripening quality Malbec–also benefit Merlot.
The result is an early-ripening, easy-drinking Merlot that is aromatic and bright. The grapes are hand-harvested, de-stemmed and undergo cold maceration before being fermented at relatively cool temperatures in stainless steel tanks.
When not over-worked, both can have appealing berry fruit layered with floral and herbal complexity. Indeed, the two varieties have a sibling relationship. (DNA testing has confirmed that they share the rare French grape Magdeleine Noire des Charentes as a mother.)
This estate-bottled Uco Valley Merlot has both the strength and the character to appeal to Malbec fans. It’s also a pretty decent value.
I paid about $15 for my bottle in the Houston metro area…which means it’s just out of range of our Under $12 Reviews category. It’s widely distributed (by Palm Bay International) and available for as little as $10 in some markets.
This is a “drink immediately” style of wine. However, the 2020 wasn’t tasting the least bit tired when I drank it in early 2026.
Bottle: Salentein “Portillo No. 06” Uco Valley Merlot (2020) – Mendoza, Argentina
Variety: Merlot (100%)
ABV: 14%
Suggested retail: $12.99
My rating: 8.3 (out 10)
Further reading:
Wines of Argentina: Malbec Numbers
A different Merlot every Thursday! You can view archived #MerlotThursday reviews here.
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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