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Review: ROCO “Gravel Road” Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (2022)

A fresh and lively Willamette Pinot Noir is on the table tonight. “Gravel Road” is the entry-level Pinot from ROCO Winery, founded by Oregon wine pioneers Rollin Soles and Corby Stonebraker-Soles. It’s a solid–though not life-changing–weekday wine at $25-$30. It opens with a friendly burst of fruit: Cherry, strawberry fruit leather, and Bosc pear. The…
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Merlot Thursday: Meeker “Winemakers’ Handprint” Sonoma County Merlot (2022)

Every bottle of Meeker‘s “Winemakers’ Handprint” Merlot is marked by the winemaker with acrylic paint. Fingerprints grasp the curves of the bottle in neon smears of fuschia and yellow, wrapping the glass in a handshake–or reaching out from the shelf in a friendly wave. The handprint is meant to remind drinkers that wine is made…
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Review: Domaines Schlumberger “Cuvée Christine” Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives (2018)

“A late-picked Gewurztraminer has perhaps the most exotic smell of any wine in the world,” says Jancis Robinson’s Atlas of Wine. Whether dry or sweet, this grape is extra. Gewurztraminer punks the palate while it indulges the senses. It’s fascinating, it’s uncanny–and I can’t get enough of it. My local wine shop only stocks Gewurztraminer…
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Review: Santa Cruz Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (2023)

This dive bar is better known for birria tacos–and for bad decisions involving tequila–than it is for wine. But I really want a glass of red wine with some carne asada, so here goes nothing. Santa Cruz Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is sitting in mini bottles, next to vials of beer salt and a frozen-drink machine…
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Review: Taittinger “La Française” Brut Champagne (NV)

Taittinger’s “La Française” is one of the best widely available Champagnes in the $50-$60 price range. It’s like a sampler platter of all the classic Champagne flavors, and it hits an ideal spot between richness and freshness. It’s versatile, too. Not too soft, not too acidic. Good brand-name recognition for impressing your friends, but not…
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Onward and upward for Texas wine! Tasting North Texas at the Frontiers of Flight Museum

Texas wine took over the Frontiers of Flight Museum for a day, with a dozen producers showing up to pour their wines for thirsty Dallasites. A backdrop of historic aircraft and spacecraft set the scene as the post-brunch crowd streamed in for an afternoon of tasting. The Wine Fairy was there, too! Here’s what we…
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Norah Jones’s “This Life” wines, reviewed: French bubbles and rosé for summer!

Summer in Texas lasts about nine months out of the year. When you’re relaxing by the pool or on the patio in 100-degree weather, only one type of wine will do: The cold type. Singer-songwriter and musician Norah Jones must’ve been thinking of her Texas roots when she created her wine brand. Her “This Life”…
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Merlot Thursday: Ron Yates Friesen Vineyards Texas High Plains Merlot (2021)

“Texas wine is bad” is one of those wine-industry truisms that I wish I could erase from conversation. The truth is, Texas wine runs the entire gamut of quality, from undrinkable to world-class. In that way, it’s a lot like Merlot–another wine category that has fallen victim to unfair generalization and unfair disdain. The only…
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All roads lead to wine: On starting a wine career at 40

I’m 40 years old tomorrow, and I’m starting off my birthday weekend with a short pour of midlife angst. At first, I thought I’d celebrate with a special bottle. But there are no 1986 wines in stock at the local shop. (They laughed.) So instead of uncorking a birthday vintage tonight, I’m looking back at…
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Merlot Thursday: Les Cadrans de Lassègue Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (2022)

Once again, I’m in the North Dallas suburbs and searching for Merlot. It looks promising: The steakhouses here are wedged into the crevices between every parking garage and highway median. However, this is the land of Caymus and Austin Hope, and finding a fresh glass of Merlot is never a sure thing. I pop into…
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Pinot Forum Dallas: Tasting the Russian River Valley

What could be better than traveling to your favorite wine regions? Not much–except having your favorite wine regions come to you! That’s what happened in April when I met up with the Russian River Valley Winegrowers in downtown Dallas. Located just north of the Bay Area and cooled by fog from the Petaluma Gap, Russian…
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Review: Cave de Lugny Mâcon-Villages “La Côte Blanche” Unoaked Chardonnay (2022)

Today’s white wine is 100% Chardonnay–you can be sure of it. Not only because Chardonnay is the only permitted variety in the Mâcon-Villages appellation, but also because the label proudly proclaims it to be so: “Chardonnay.” Although it’s jarring to see the name of a grape beneath the sloping shoulders of a Burgundy bottle, it…