“A late-picked Gewurztraminer has perhaps the most exotic smell of any wine in the world,” says Jancis Robinson’s Atlas of Wine.
Whether dry or sweet, this grape is extra. Gewurztraminer punks the palate while it indulges the senses. It’s fascinating, it’s uncanny–and I can’t get enough of it.
My local wine shop only stocks Gewurztraminer between Thanksgiving and New Year’s–a space-saving decision that I gripe about every spring and summer when the shelves are Gewurz-less. But this past December, I planned ahead and grabbed a couple of special bottles including a half-bottle of the “Cuvée Christine” from Domaines Schlumberger.
It’s a cliché to describe wine as bottled summer–but it’s a perfect descriptor for this Alsatian elixir. It shines a vibrant eggy yellow, the color of 10 AM sunshine and daffodils’ souls. The wine is so big and sunny that it can’t help but pull you into its orbit.
Fragrant blossoms (orange, elderflower), nectarine, pineapple, and dried lemon peel lead the aromatic supernova, mellowing after a moment into the classic Gewurztraminer nose of rosewater and lychee.
Tasting it reveals more intense, maturing yellow-fruit flavors: Toasted pineapple, lychee syrup, golden raisins, orange gumdrops, and kumquats. Moderate acidity balances a thick, unctuous mouthfeel. (Yes, it’s very sweet–95 g/L.) The lingering palate closes with a hint of bitterness. But that bitterness encompasses a rare and stimulating mix of tastes and textures: Peach skins, bee pollen, and cinnamon bark. There is a slight hint of volatility in my bottle that distracts from the richness of its finish.
The grapes for “Cuvée Christine” come exclusively from the Kessler Grand Cru, of which Domaine Schlumberger owns the majority. So does that mean this 2018 was (gasp!) de-classified?
Although Schlumberger is one of the largest holders of classified vineyards in southern Alsace, they are known for forgoing the Grand Cru label for wines they feel do not meet their exacting standards. Reportedly, only 25% of Schlumberger’s wines are released with the designation though as many as 55% qualify.
Seventh-generation estate manager Séverine Beydon-Schlumberger explained the philosophy behind those decisions in a 2023 interview with Vinous:
“The backbone of the company is consistency. For me, the luxury of being a wine producer is not to drive a Ferrari or wear Chanel but to be able to skip a vintage when it is not up to scratch. We did not release any Riesling grand crus in 2016. All were de-classified. The only reason we can do that is because we are family owned.”
Wine is art, and it takes courage and awareness to separate your next-best art from your best. I admire the wine, but I admire the conviction even more.
Late-harvest Gewurztraminer should strike you like a bolt through the heart. This one warms you gently–providing plenty of cheer, but perhaps not the pinnacle of dessert-wine ecstasy.
Bottle: Domaines Schlumberger “Cuvée Christine” Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives (2018) – Alsace, France
Variety: Gewurztraminer (100%)
ABV: 12.5%
Suggested retail: $52 (375 ml)
My rating: 9.1 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are my entirely my own.
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