Once again, I’m in the North Dallas suburbs and searching for Merlot. It looks promising: The steakhouses here are wedged into the crevices between every parking garage and highway median.
However, this is the land of Caymus and Austin Hope, and finding a fresh glass of Merlot is never a sure thing.
I pop into Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar–which is basically Outback with a nice haircut and a vest on. The bar is offering several West Coast Merlots on their regular list. But (dang it), they’re all wines that I’ve reviewed within the last couple of months.
“You pour any Bordeaux by the glass?” I ask, squinting behind the bar for a likely Right Bank bottle. “Not really,” says the somm. So I pick up the big list and choose a bottle, which he kindly opens and offers to let me taste before I commit.
Tasting “Les Cadrans”
Commitment comes in an instant, because “Les Cadrans” is love at first sniff. I can’t be coy with Bordeaux when it’s built like this, stacked with fruit and popping with personality.
The aromatics arrive in a rush with dried tart cherries, flowers, peppers, chocolate, lavender, and licorice on the nose. Juicy, cherry-pie flavors give way to waves of Worcestershire and green peppercorn. Plenty of intensity on the palate, and a smooth-but-lively texture. Very appealing finish of soft brown fig and molasses with spicy pepper, fennel seed, green cardamom, and nutmeg.
I adore this wine because it’s plush in texture, but also assertive in its Cab Franc-iness. Its savory, peppery greenness is artfully integrated into its layers of fruit. Merlot and Cab Franc share the spotlight, bringing classic Right Bank richness along with some unexpected spice-cabinet flavors. It’s a rare wine that’s both comforting and entertaining.
“Les Cadrans” is the second wine of Château Lassègue. This is a Saint-Émilion property which has recently been on the rise and was promoted to Grand Cru Classé status in 2022. It grows Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon in proportions that are reflected between the Château’s two wines.
Their unusual focus on Cabernet Franc (35% of surface area) is made possible by the vineyards’ composition and aspect. Those deep-rooted Cab Franc vines thrive on the upper limestone hills, while Merlot chills on the damper mid-slopes and a little Cab Sauv basks in patches of gravel.
The vineyards face south and south-west to maximize sun exposure for the benefit of the late-ripening varieties. Sun-ripeness is baked into the brand: “Les Cadrans” refers to the restored, functional sundials on the facade of the 18th-century Château.
This outstanding-value wine from Saint-Émilion is made from 30 to 60 year old vines, including 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2022 is already nicely developing and ready to drink right out of the bottle.
Food Pairing
My wine search had brought me to a steakhouse–so the natural pairing was steak. But the prominence of Cab Franc in this blend made me want to play matchmaker with its floral and spicy flavors which were so distinctive and charming.
I drank it with a few bites of ribeye, a big dish of gochuchang green beans, and brie butter with crusty bread. I washed the whole thing down with a lavender latte and a piece of dark chocolate and I was in Bordeaux bliss.
Bottle: Les Cadrans de Lassègue Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (2022)
Variety: Merlot (70%), Cabernet Franc (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%)
ABV: 14.5%
Suggested retail: $34.99
My rating: 9.4 (out of 10)
Further reading:
Circle of Wine Writers: The lowdown on Lassègue
Mitchell Rabinowitz: Château Lassègue: History and Portfolio
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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