The Wine Fairy

Today’s Merlot is doomed to be overshadowed by its food pairing: An audacious, silly carnival ride for meatballs.

The Meatball Ferris Wheel is the signature appetizer at The Sicilian Butcher. Created by Chef Joey Maggiore, the Italian chain has 7 locations in Texas, Arizona, and Tennessee. It popped up last year in a North Dallas space that formerly held an all-you-can-eat sushi restaurant. Clearly, the holy ghost of foodie excess still hovers over the building.

With the Meatball Ferris Wheel, your table (or just you–no judgment here) can rotate through six different golf-ball-sized meatballs. Each is plopped into soft polenta and bathed in a different sauce. The stainless steel gondolas are removable for easier bartering and sharing. The metal wheel spins and the cups tip precariously–ready to shower you at any moment with a spray of pesto cream or marinara.

And to the left is poor Merlot in a clean, gimmick-free glass. In keeping with the restaurant’s Sicilian theme, the rosso della casa hails from Sicily.

Tasting Anterra Merlot

The wine arrives while the meatballs are getting their ride tickets punched. It’s deep ruby in the glass with some transparency and a bright magenta rim. Aromas of fresh cherries, mint/oregano, and a slight umami earthiness—which I initially identify as “truffle” before realizing it might actually be wafting over from the truffle fries at the next table.

The flavors are more of the same: Cherry, red plum, and green herbs with a soft texture and little (if any) oak character. After 30 minutes in the glass, it develops some smooth blackberry and floral notes, too.

On #MerlotThursday, we often marvel at the nuance and complexity that 100% Merlot can achieve. But this is Merlot’s agreeable (and somewhat basic) alter ego. It’s a low-tannin, medium-bodied red with plenty of fruit and lively acidity, but very little depth or complexity.

For a more inspiring Italian wine experience, consider looking beyond this Merlot to one of the restaurant’s many other Sicilian selections–like the “Frapello” blend or the Etna Rosso.

Food Pairing

I first learned about the Meatball Ferris Wheel from the Reddit community r/wewantplates. (Or maybe it was r/stupidfood. Or possibly r/stupidfoodbutgimme.) The wine, I learned about from the menu insert advertising $6 pours.

If wine pairing is all about balance, then these two items are (actually) a perfect couple–the rock star and the workhorse. The meatball contraption hustles for attention while Merlot quietly gets the job done.

Light and fresh, it works as a cleansing sip between spoonfuls of Alfredo sauce. A bite of truffled beef and parmesan brings out the brightness of its cherry fruit. And the gentle structure helps temper a surprisingly piquant arrabbiata.

This is very modest Merlot. But it’s not overpriced, and it’s honestly not bad. It’s a juicy house wine that goes with everything–and at 12.5% alcohol, you can get a bottle for the table without the risk of anyone passing out in their polenta.

Bottle: Anterra Terre Siciliane IGT Merlot (2024) – Italy

Variety: Merlot (100%)

ABV: 12.5%

Suggested retail: $10.99

My rating: 7.7 (out of 10)

Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.

On Thursdays, we Merlot! See past #MerlotThursday reviews.