Château Angélus, on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, is famous for its natural amphitheater that captures the peals of nearby church bells. It’s equally known for its iconic, collectible Cabernet Franc-focused blends. And more recently, Angélus made wine-industry headlines for its exit from the Saint-Émilion classification system.
Angélus attained the highest rank (Premier Grand Cru Classé A) in 2012. However, the estate announced it would not submit its wines for consideration for the classification in 2022. Along with three other prestigious Right Bank châteaux that did not participate in the 2022 renewal, the wines of Angélus will now be styled with the standard appellation of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.
Speaking in Dallas last week, eighth-generation owner Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal was asked about her decision to leave the classification. She spoke of the matter with great delicacy, acknowledging the hesitation of some Angélus workers, and the possible confusion among collectors and consumers. To the visiting sommeliers and restaurant buyers: “It can be difficult for you, on the wine list.”
Ultimately, Angélus maintains a singular focus on wine quality, independent of the classification. Managing the historic estate requires ongoing investment in its vines and cellars–a responsibility which Boüard-Rivoal calls a “wonderful task.” She embraces the role of a protector of her family’s nearly 250-year legacy, telling us, “I’m a link in a chain, with a duty of transmission.”
Tasting Château Angélus
The tables at Dallas’s MISA Imports were decorated with French flags and Texas yellow roses. After a welcome drink of a white wine (more on that later), a taste of the restaurant-friendly Tempo d’Angélus (from magnum), and two vintages of Le Carillon d’Angélus, we sampled two editions of the main wine. All were quite splendid–but my #MerlotThursday pick for this week is the 2020.
The 2020 is the youngest of the Angélus “trilogy” of great recent vintages (2018-2020). It is also the second-to-last year to bear the “Premier Grand Cru Classé A” label.
The wine is deeply colored, like purple ink. Intensely fragrant with blackberry, boysenberry, wild cherry, spiced chocolate, and fresh-cut flowers (violet and iris). Aromas of cocoa butter, blueberry, and fruity guajillo chili are a prelude to a lush mouthfeel with fine silty tannins. Tangy red berries and orange peel restore brightness to the midpalate. Ginger and minty spice enliven an exceptionally long finish with soft blackberries and plum galette.
The fruit shows great maturity without giving up one whiff of its floral exuberance or the spicy Cab Franc character that makes Angélus distinctive. The 2020 vintage is 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, with (according to some internet sources) a tiny amount of Petit Verdot that isn’t recorded in the official blend.
On winemaking: Angélus leverages its plantings of Cabernet Franc for freshness in hot vintages, and picked its grapes earlier than usual in 2020. Since 2018, Angélus has also used large foudres alongside traditional barrels to improve oak integration and preserve Cabernet Franc’s aromatic purity and tension. More recently, a state-of-the-art new vat room introduced suspended, inverted-cone tanks for gradual, gentle extraction from the cap.
The 2020 Angélus is, Boüard-Rivoal says, the “synthesis” of its trilogy, fusing the expressive 2018 with the classic 2019. It is young, but fully formed–an immodestly beautiful wine.
Angélus News (and Four Fun Facts!)
On a personal note, my wine life has gotten so crazy, y’all. I keep on pinching myself–but here we are. On a Merlot Thursday less than a year ago I was writing about No. 3 d’Angélus in a cozy dive bar, not tasting the Grand Vin with the estate owner.
But that’s enough of my Saint-Émilion fangirling, dear reader. I will now share a few bits of Château Angélus lore that I gleaned during the presentation:
The Nicknames
Angélus gives a unique title to each vintage of the main wine, a phrase that expresses its character and theme. The estate also designates historic vintages as “Legendary Years,” the most recent of which was 2018.
That 2020 vintage–unsurprisingly–answers to the nickname of “Le Sublime.” The 2014 (a tricky ripening season rescued by a long Indian summer and an unusually prolonged October harvest) was dubbed “L’Indien.”
The Carillon Anthems
Angélus’s companion cuvée (Boüard-Rivoal doesn’t prefer the term “second wine,” explaining that this is a distinct, Cab Franc-driven style) is “Le Carillon d’Angélus.” It’s named for the 20-bell instrument in the estate’s bell tower–a symphony of bells, the way this blend is a composition of Saint-Émilion’s Cab Franc terroirs.
The electronic carillon system, a winery exec explained, can jam out with practically any tune. It’s often used to play national anthems for VIP guests from around the world. “When you visit, we will play ‘Texas, Our Texas,’” he joked to Angélus’s Texas-based importer.
The Old Cabernet Franc
The Angélus approach to blending isn’t, “And here’s a little bit of Cab Franc we add for perfume.” Cabernet Franc is unusually important for Angélus and accounts for 47% of its plantings.
Boüard-Rivoal shared that the château’s emphasis on the variety stems from her great-grandmother, Elisabeth Bouchet. “Bouchet” is a local synonym for Cabernet Franc, and Elisabeth’s husband planted a parcel in her honor after their marriage in 1921. Angélus made a special cuvée of 100% Cabernet Franc from old vines at the heart of the estate, the 2022 “Hommage à Elisabeth Bouchet.”
The White Wine
Angélus is highly acclaimed for its red wines, and of course white wine is not permitted in the Saint-Émilion appellation.
But sometimes, you want something lighter to go with a meal. That was the idea behind its new venture into white wine, “Blanc du Milieu,” which was announced in 2023. There is a very small commercial production, but generally Angélus’s white wines have been served at events at the estate or placed in charity auctions.
We tasted the Blanc du Milieu, which is sourced from a single 1.7-hectare plot located in Castillon-la-Bataille. It’s vibrant and fruit-led, with aromas of lemon, blossoms, green apple, and creamy white peaches. Sémillon shows strongly in the blend, evolving into an ethereal honey note that softens the wine’s needlepoint acidity. A rare Grand Vin Blanc (incorporating Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sémillon) is also making its Texas debut after six years of private development within the winery.
For all the discussion surrounding Château Angélus, the 2020 vintage is a reminder that the label is only part of the story–the rest is in the glass. To Merlot and Cabernet Franc: May they be united forever in wines of such beauty and power. 🍷
Further reading:
Château Angélus: New cuvée, Clos du Milieu and Blanc du Milieu
Jane Anson – Inside Bordeaux: Analysis: Why is Château Angélus leaving the St Emilion classification?
Bottle: Château Angélus Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A (2020) – Bordeaux, France
Variety: Merlot (60%), Cabernet Franc (40%)
ABV: 14.5%
Suggested retail: $500
My rating: 9.6 (out of 10)
Other wines tasted:
Blanc du Milieu Vin de Pays de l’Atlantique (2022)
Tempo d’Angélus (2023)
Le Carillon d’Angélus (2019)
Le Carillon d’Angélus (2015)
Château Angélus (2014)
Review disclosure: I attended this tasting as a guest of the importer/distributor. I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
On Thursdays, we Merlot! You can view archived #MerlotThursday reviews here.
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