A World Cup match lasts approximately 90 to 100 minutes. I’m not really into sports…but coincidentally, 90 minutes is about how long I like to linger over a tasty glass of red wine.
And so, we are at the bar, my wife is watching footie on the telly–and I am kicking off the evening with some Saint-Émilion.
Château Armens is a 25-hectare estate on the east end of Saint-Émilion, on Bordeaux’s Right Bank. The vineyard is owned by Domaines Comte de Malet Roquefort, whose flagship wine is the elegant and structured Château La Gaffelière. By contrast, Château Armens is a lot easier on the wallet and leans a little more into early-drinking territory. Its 85% Merlot blend makes it a perfect choice for this #MerlotThursday.
The wine is a deep inky red with slow, clear tears. A dense and moody nose with blackberries, dried rose, and vegetable musk (okra pods and bruised flowers). Crushed mint, chocolate sauce, and mole spices hint at dessert-like richness, before yielding to earthy-vegetal notes of grilled portobello mushroom and cigar wrapper.
A not-too-heavy texture gives the wine some room to fully express its full roster of aromas. Fruit subs back in at halftime, bringing fresh cherries, rosehips, and a touch of dried fig. Oak is watching from the bench. A portion of Cabernet Franc is Merlot’s muscular teammate, contributing some firm tannins and savory flavors of grilled poblano skins, black pepper, and cumin.
The 2020 is drinking nicely right now. Enjoyable and intriguing, both. It tastes (perhaps) older than it is, but certainly still has a few good seasons left in it.
What separates really good Saint-Émilion from the more ordinary stuff? The question came up at a tasting the other day, and I’ll venture a theory: It’s strength and finesse, but also endurance.
Most Saint-Émilion gets off to a good start. Merlot’s beauty and Cab Franc’s charm basically ensure that. These wines consistently smell enticing–but as the experience progresses, substance reveals itself. Is there plushness beneath its chocolate-y promises? Are those berries and blossoms in it for the long haul, or do they start to fade and lag behind?
Like a starting outfield player, this wine’s assignment is to be just as capable in minute 90 as it was in minute 1. After tasting it over the course of an hour–no, I couldn’t make my single glass last until stoppage time–I feel like Château Armens is a worthy candidate for Merlot MVP.
Bottle: Château Armens Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (2020) – Bordeaux, France
Variety: Merlot (85%), Cabernet Franc (15%)
ABV: 14%
Suggested retail: $40
My rating: 9.1 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
On Thursdays, we Merlot! See past #MerlotThursday reviews.
Leave a Comment