There are two types of people who buy the Kirkland Signature wines from Costco: Those who care about wine tasting, and those who (mostly) don’t.
Among the latter group, Kirkland wines are convenient, cheap grocery items and house-party standbys. Grabbing a case of Prosecco or a jug of Chianti saves you money and a trip to the liquor store.
And among confirmed wine nerds, Costco’s house-brand bottles are an object of frugal fascination, palate curiosity, and (sometimes) detective work. I often encounter Kirkland-related wine chatter at tastings and on Reddit: Which Tuscan producer bottled that 2012 Brunello di Montalcino for the retail giant? Can a $20 Margaux really be delicious?
It was with this same cautious optimism that I uncorked a budget-friendly Costco bottle from one of my favorite Rhône appellations. Vacqueyras is a go-to region when I’m choosing wine for myself. I love to drink them with Mediterranean food, pizza, vegetable stews, steaks…or anytime I want to chew on a full-bodied red that’s a little savory and doesn’t lead with acid or oak.
Tasting Kirkland Signature Vacqueyras (2023)
The 2023 Kirkland Signature delivers on the Vacqueyras promise of robust, spicy, Grenache-based wine.
In the glass, it’s blood-red with a purple tinge. Pronounced, youthful aromas of red-fleshed plum, spiced berries, and iron/raw beef. Herbs are prominent on the nose: Dried sage, black pepper, light licorice, menthol, and a persistent, grassy whiff of horehound.
The structure is big–but not huge–medium-plus body and acidity helping to support the totally expected 14.5% alcohol. A fruit mouthful of ripe plum, cherry skins, and Tellicherry pepper leads into clingy tannins laced with tree resin and quinine.
At times, the fruit is overpowered by herbal flavors. There’s not much evolution in the glass, and it has a brief, slightly bitter finish. But if you drink it quickly enough, then the start of each sip can smooth over those shortcomings.
I do take value into account when I’m rating wines, and well…I paid $7.97. (Costco wine super-fans will know that the .97 price signifies an end-of-vintage clearance.) This bottle is regularly priced at just under $12. By contrast, Vacqueyras reds in my market usually retail for around $30 and up.
In short, this was a competent and typical Rhône GSM (certainly for the price), but I wasn’t in love. It has pretty average depth, and the finish left me cold. I did not make a beeline back to Costco to fill up my cart with value Vacqueyras–but I also didn’t regret buying it or finishing the bottle.
Bottle: Kirkland Signature Vacqueyras (2023) – Southern Rhône, France
Variety: Grenache (80%), Syrah (10%), Mourvedre (10%)
ABV: 14.5%
Suggested retail: $11.49
My rating: 8.4 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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