The Wine Fairy

With great Merlot comes great responsibility. That was my thought as I took my first sip of the “Rendezvous” Merlot-based blend from RdV Vineyards of Virginia.

Pizza in hand, fire blazing, feet propped up on the couch, I thought I was settling for a casual wine-and-takeout weeknight with friends. But the wine was poured and–wouldn’t you know it?–I realized I had to step away from the garlic knots and take a tasting note on it.

Virginia wine, as I’ve mentioned before, is new to me. It’s not widely distributed outside the state, and this is the first one I’ve opened specifically for a #MerlotThursday. So in case you are also a non-expert, here’s some facts to help get both of us up to speed:

Merlot is Virginia’s number-three black grape variety (after Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot). It’s not a huge production–best estimates place the total Merlot plantings at less than 450 acres across the state. Still, many respected Virginia winemakers have cited it as a critically under-utilized and under-appreciated grape.

Virginia is justifiably proud of its Bordeaux-style blends, with a marked preference for perfumed Cab Franc and a heftier-than-usual dose of Petit Verdot. “In its best years,” W. Blake Gray writes for Wine Searcher, “Virginia produces red Bordeaux blends that combine the fruit of the US West Coast with the structure and restraint of France.” Merlot plays its classic role in these wines, smoothing over prickly tannins and adding ripe berry flavors.

One key benefit of growing Merlot in Virginia is that it ripens early enough to dodge the autumn rains. Almost every Virginia winery likes to say that their climate is similar to Bordeaux. That’s true enough, if you look at average annual rainfall statistics. But while Bordeaux gets wet weather throughout the year, Virginia is prone to late-summer tropical storms off the Atlantic coast, which can be bad news at harvest time. Another advantage of Merlot is its consistent yields and ripening across different soil types and throughout difficult vintages.

But as elsewhere, Merlot’s strengths (big fruit, softness and approachability) inevitably cost it some cachet. It gets talked about less than specialty varieties like Petit Manseng, Viognier, and even the hybrid Chambourcin. And it tends to win fewer awards in competitions, including Virginia’s prestigious Governor’s Cup.

But with Merlot’s reputation on the upswing and some serious growers investing in it, all that could be changing. Which brings me to RdV Vineyards, which produced today’s wine.

Located in the rolling Blue Ridge foothills west of DC, RdV has gained a reputation as possibly the state’s finest producer. It commanded high prices and fierce loyalty for its two wines. (Both are Bordeaux-style blends marked by generous amounts of Cabernet Franc.) Its 18 acres of vines are located on weathered granite slopes, creating exciting new terroir expressions for traditional Bordeaux varieties.

In 2024, RdV was acquired by the group that owns Bordeaux’s Château Montrose for an undisclosed sum. (Devoted fans can rest easy: Winemaker Josh Grainer MW and Bordeaux consultant Eric Boissenot will stay on.)

The sale marked the first time a Virginia winery was purchased by an overseas wine company in over 50 years, and validated Virginians’ conviction that their state is producing world-class red blends. RdV was re-branded as Lost Mountain, the name that George Washington gave the site when he encountered it as a young surveyor in 1749.

“Rendezvous” is the winery’s Merlot-based second wine. The main wine, “Lost Mountain,” is assembled in a Left Bank (Cabernet-driven) style. Around 1000 cases of Rendezvous are produced each year (both wines are proudly priced and highly allocated).

So that is the background and the reputation…now it’s time to taste!

The wine pours up a deep ruby color, notable for its near-opacity and gorgeous saturation. Lost Mountain’s promo materials like to use words like “lavish” and “hedonistic” for Rendezvous. It earns those descriptors on appearance alone…it really is a ribald, bordello-curtain wine-red.

On the nose, its fragrant with blackberry liqueur, macerated cherries, violet, damp earth, cinnamon, mulch, and toasted chicory. It’s not just the color that promises voluptuousness: It sits in the glass with the sluggishness of cooling lava, resisting movement. Straining my wrist and and bicep, I manage a swirl and coax out savory notes of air-cured meat and milled black pepper.

In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied (and then some), with the texture of a fruit smoothie. Overall, it’s black-fruited with spoon-soft, brandy-soaked Morello cherries in the red-fruit column. The ripeness of the berries is supported by silky medium tannins and balanced by medium-plus acidity.

The intense fruit, floral, and earthy aromas are sustained on the palate, which spices them up with a hint of creamy vanilla and anise. (Earlier vintages have been criticized for heavy new oak use, but I don’t find that characteristic here.) An ideal measure of Petit Verdot (8%) plays the role of countering Merlot’s richness, adding a dash of vegetal spice (poblano pepper?) and barkiness to every sip. The finish is long and elegant, with violets, tilled soil, and brewed black tea leaves.

An early vintage and a warm year mean this wine is built for present-day indulgence and not long-term investment. It’s drinking exceptionally well now. Alternatively, you can take the winemaker’s recommendation of holding and re-visiting it in 2-3 years.

This high-end, concentrated Virginia red was a treat to enjoy and is currently one of our top-three #MerlotThursday wines ever. (Too nuanced and delicate to drink with pizza, in fact.) Don’t call it a cult wine–it’s just a great wine that they don’t make a lot of.

P.S. If you’re interested in how Virginia Merlot (in general) stacks up in a casual blind against Right Bank Bordeaux, Wine Trails and Wanderlust has a detailed comparative tasting report.

Bottle: RdV Vineyards “Rendezvous” Red Blend (2021) – Middleburg AVA, Virginia

Variety: Merlot (51%), Cabernet Sauvignon (21%), Cabernet Franc (20%), Petit Verdot (8%)

ABV: 14%

Retail: $135

My rating: 9.3 (out of 10)

Wine Searcher: Bordeaux Goes Winery Shopping in Virginia

Wine & Country: Get to Know Merlot: Rethinking Virginia Merlot as a Foundational Wine in the Industry

Wine Trails and Wanderlust: Bordeaux vs. Virginia Blind Merlot

Pour yourself a Merlot and join in! Or, see past #MerlotThursday reviews here.

Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. The bottle was a gift from friends (and Lost Mountain wine club members) who graciously shared it with me. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.