Like a made-from-scratch spinach dip, a pair of suede loafers, a corduroy armchair…the best things in the world are cozy and opulent at the same time.
We can surely add Merlot to that list. Unapologetically plush and oh-so easy to enjoy, it’s no wonder Merlot has been snubbed by those who think wine needs to be challenging.
Sometimes–to be fair–difficult wines offer their own kind of pleasure. If I’m nipping at a glass of young Nebbiolo or Petit Verdot, trying to tease out its delicacy from its harshness, it’s not in order to punish myself. It’s to savor that particular sensation of frustration and tension. And if I’m drinking an over-the-top jammy Merlot, thick as quicksand and corny as roses, it’s for the same basic reason: Because I like it.
This week’s #MerlotThursday treat is from Château Franc Patarabet. It hails from Saint-Émilion on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, the hereditary throne of this classic grape. The 2020 vintage happens to be 100% Merlot–which allows it it to wave slyly across the Pomerol plateau at the famous Merlot-only wines of Le Pin and Petrus.
Let’s taste this Merlot!
The nose is pronounced, youthful and full of fruit. Dense raspberry, blackberry, and Mission fig blend with the unmistakable earthy aroma of raw cocoa nibs. Crème caramel and cappuccino add a layer of richness to what is an overall fresh-smelling, fruit-forward glass.
To this appealing combination, the palate adds simmered red-fleshed plums and figgy pudding–dense fruits with a touch of vanilla. Tomato skins and some tea-leaf bitterness offset their ripeness. The most distinctive flavor to me is the figs, which play out in many variations, from newly-picked to Newton’d.
If you like your Bordeaux to taste of fruits and not vegetables, you will enjoy this wine. Although it develops some green-pepper notes in the glass, on the first pour there is only a slight beetroot spiciness that complements the red fruits, which include juicy raspberry and even a hint of strawberry.
Despite the teasing whiffs of vanilla and spice, oak takes a backseat, letting the flavor of the grape shine through on its own, with admirable freshness and length. Tannins are medium-high (and acidity just short of high) giving this bottle some promising aging potential. It’s a beautiful wine, especially for the price–and this time, Merlot gets to take all the credit.
About the producer
Wine tastes better with wine stories! Château Franc Patarabet was founded in 1845 by a village blacksmith of Saint-Émilion who traded making plows for digging vineyards. The four-hectare estate is still controlled by his descendants, with mature Merlot vines planted in the cool alluvial sand and clay of the Côte de Pavie. A little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is also grown there.
Château Franc Patarabet produces just two wines, both predominantly from Merlot. Those two wines are the Grand Vin that I tasted today, plus an old-vine expression called Cuvée Léopold after the estate’s early patriarch, wine-grower Leopold Barraud.
In an era of tiresome micro-trends and market fragmentation, I have a soft spot in my heart for generational wineries that persevere in doing one thing and doing it well. (To Leopold! To Bordeaux! To Merlot!)
This week’s glass of Merlot was enjoyed at Winestein’s Tasting Room in Grapevine. Winestein’s owner Michael graciously Coravinned it for me so I could do my #MerlotThursday homework and still have the capacity to taste through their marvelous Italian Flight.
We’re doing this every week! See previous Merlot Thursday reviews here.
Bottle: Château Franc Patarabet Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (2020)
Variety: Merlot (100%). Aged 12 months in French oak, 15% new (per Saint-Émilion AOC official website).
ABV: 13.5%
Suggested retail: $40
My rating: 9.1 (out of 10)
Further reading: Château Franc Patarabet, Property in the Heart of Saint-Émilion
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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