As Dallas continues to sprawl northward, newly-built steakhouses pop up along the Tollway overnight, like mushrooms. And, like a forager, I poke at them and turn them over. I’m looking for my next tasty prize: a new bottle for #MerlotThursday.
J. Alexander’s has that odd, affluent-suburb combination of steaks and gooey sushi rolls, no happy hour ever, and (unfortunately) the acoustics of a roadside diner. But they do have a decent one-page wine list that includes three Merlot options. I order the Markham “Six Stack” ($14).
There’s about an inch of wine left in the bottle on the countertop, so I ask for a fresh pour. It arrives in a capacious, thick glass.
The wine is deep purple with an inky core and a thin watery rim. It smells of dark plums, chocolate…
There are three too many gray pleather chairs wedged together around the bar. Noise from the open kitchen ricochets around the warehouse-style ceiling. The couple at my left elbow is dining on sticky ribs and an overcooked side of veg–and for a few moments all my nose can pick up is barbecue sauce and boiled broccoli. A glass of water sweats on the warm bartop, drenching a cocktail napkin. Silverware clatters and babies cry.
I try again. The wine smells of ripe black plums, black-cherry compote, chocolate, blackberry liqueur, and just-baked vanilla cookies. It’s completely dry. Tannins are thick and silty.
Fresh red cherries shine through on the palate with a welcome punch of acidity. But also raisins–great gobs of raisined fruit wrapped in dark chocolate. The wine is served rather warm, so I sip it slowly, imagining a slight chill and mentally forgiving its alcohol heat.
Napa Valley’s Markham Vineyards has been producing Merlot for 45 years. “Six Stack” is their affordable North Coast AVA bottling that’s designed for on-premise sales. The 2023 vintage is made with 80% Alexander Valley grapes, with most of the remainder coming from Mendocino County. The wine is aged in French oak (30% new) for 12 months.
The bartender checks in. He confesses to being a Merlot skeptic and asks me how the wine is.
“It’s very ripe. And soft,” I say. “But it’s well-made.”
The truth is, it’s not my favorite style. I like my Merlot a little greener, and a little rougher around the edges. But at least no corners have been cut here. This big Cali Merlot is–unlike the restaurant–an actual American classic.
Bottle: Markham Vineyards “Six Stack” North Coast Merlot (2023) – California, United States
Variety: Merlot (93%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%)
ABV: 14.1%
Suggested retail: $19.99
My rating: 8.7 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
On Thursdays, we Merlot! You can view archived #MerlotThursday reviews here.
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