“There is no arguing about taste” is a maxim that goes back centuries. But as wine fans and wine critics, that’s what we absolutely love to do, regardless.
Let’s taste wine! Argue about taste! Then open another bottle and argue about taste some more.
Today’s wine is a very popular Merlot from the very popular Orin Swift Wines. Every recent release has sold out. (The forthcoming 2025 vintage is currently being offered as a 6, 12, or 24 bottle allotment for wine club members only)
“Advice from John” performs very well locally, too. People don’t necessarily order it by name, but they see the scrappy label and go, “Oh, yeah–that one! Have you heard of it? I liked it before it was cool!”
To its fans, it’s the indie darling of American Merlots. Or alternatively (if you ask my wine snob friends), it’s the late-career pop diva of Merlots–unsubtle, saccharine, and corny.
Whichever analogy you prefer, there’s no denying that many people enjoy this Merlot. The winery leans into that populist appeal. “Advice from John” is named after a photo-art book of bathroom graffiti, a self-aware nod to the wisdom of the anonymous masses. The label displays a cryptic bit of barroom poetry: “You had me at HELL NO.”
Tasting “Advice from John” Merlot
For this #MerlotThursday, I ordered “Advice from John” at Knife Plano, where it is the only Merlot poured by the glass.
In the glass, it’s a saturated dark purple. The label’s neon graffiti script is echoed by a Technicolor halo of magenta. Extra-ripe aromas of raisin, black plum, and prune are surrounded by sweet tobacco, chocolate, and baking spices. Medium acidity and tannins lead into a frictionless finish of blueberry and espresso.
The majority of the fruit comes from California’s North Coast. It’s aged for 14 months in French oak barrels, 25% of them new.
“Sugar bomb!” the wine snobs jeer. But “Advice from John” is bottled at just under 5 grams of residual sugar. There’s a touch of sweetness here, but it’s really a dry wine that smells sweeter than it tastes.
My two quibbles: Man, this is ripe and chocolate-y. If it was a movie theater candy, it’d be Raisinets–and I’m more of a Cherry Sours girl. The fruit isn’t cooked, but it’s dense and smothering. I really have to strain to pick up nuances beneath the concentrated dark berry, sweet spice, and roasty-toasty flavors.
My second gripe is the price. I…don’t think this drinks like a $45 bottle. (And certainly not an $18 glass at a Dallas steakhouse.) It’s pleasant enough…but for that price, would I choose it over one of my beloved Saint-Émilions when a Merlot craving hits? The answer’s right there on the label: Hell no.
At the same time, I’m Team Merlot. I can’t be too harsh on a winery that champions single-varietal Merlot and promotes it with art and attitude.
“All good things circle back around, so let’s revitalize this delicious, luscious, and fun varietal,” Orin Swift says of “Advice from John” Merlot. Now that’s something we won’t argue with.
Bottle: Orin Swift “Advice from John” California Merlot (2024)
Variety: Merlot (100%)
ABV: 14.9%
Suggested retail: $43 (wine club pricing)
My rating: 8.1 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
On Thursdays, we Merlot! You can view archived #MerlotThursday reviews here.
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