The Wine Fairy

A ripe ‘n rowdy Merlot from Spain is our pick for this #MerlotThursday! “Juntos” comes from the sunny Mediterranean coast in the region of Valencia.

Wine lovers may hear “Alicante” and think of Alicante Bouschet, the red-fleshed grape that lends its irresistible color to blends. And indeed, Merlot-Alicante blends do exist in the table wines of Italy, France, and Spain. But in this case, Alicante is a place–a historic port city and a DO (Denominación de Origen) of Spanish wine. And the wine we’re about to taste is not a blend, but made from 100% Merlot.

The wine is almost black with a thin burgundy rim. It stains the glass as you swirl, daring you to smile with teeth after you’ve had a sip or two.

On the nose, it’s thick and fruity with blackberries, black plums, iris, dry cocoa, and a hint of cola spice. It tastes of soft black fruits with medium acidity and high alcohol. Medium-plus tannins (bordering on high) nudge this wine toward the “full-bodied” category. A modest finish with flavors of blackberry, unripe black cherry, toast and cinnamon.

Overall, this is a relatively simple, fruit-led style that would make a tasty barbecue wine. Some purple floral aromas help lift it out of its dense structure. Oak is minimal, letting the high level of extraction from the sun-ripened Merlot skins hold the wine together. Some of its luscious berry flavors don’t quite last on the palate, and the silty tannins build into a slightly bitter layer that begs for food.

My friends sometimes tease me for decanting cheapo wines–but this bottle is a great argument for why you should give it a try. After half an hour of sitting and swirling, it improves vastly. Any harsh edges of tannin and alcohol soften. The flavors broaden and expand to embrace smooth chocolate and herbal tincture of sage and lavender. (This is a “drink now” wine–its pretty aromatics are its strength, and it doesn’t have the acidity to support extended aging.)

The Merlot for “Juntos” comes from dry-farmed, gobelet-trained vines located on hills ranging from 2,100-2,450 feet above the sea. High sun exposure and coastal winds pummel these vineyards, meaning that Merlot doesn’t need any help from other grapes to bring intense color and structure to the glass.

The producer, Bodegas Volver, is primarily known for native varieties of Spain (Tempranillo, Monastrell, Merseguera, Macabeo, etc.). But they also produce wines from popular international varieties for export.

“Juntos,” one of their value brands, means “together” in Spanish. “Many things come together to create a great wine,” the label tells us. It’s also a reminder that wine is meant for pairing: With good friends, with happy occasions, with delicious meals. This is a bold, inexpensive Merlot that benefits from air and shines at the table–especially with grilled or savory dishes.

My weekly Merlot was a thrifty ($8) by-the-glass offering at Seasons 52, the wine-bar chain that’s a sister brand of Olive Garden. I enjoyed it with two items from their new Spring happy hour menu: An artichoke and pesto flatbread ($7 with wine purchase) and the Kona-rubbed lamb loin tapas ($8).

Bottle: Bodegas Volver “Juntos” Alicante Merlot (2024) – Spain

Variety: Merlot (100%)

ABV: 14%

Suggested retail: $11.99

My rating: 8.2 (out of 10)

Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.

On Thursdays, we Merlot! You can view archived #MerlotThursday reviews here.