It’s mind-boggling to think about just how new most of the New World wine regions are. Bordeaux was refining its Merlot in the Middle Ages and making lists of the top vineyards two centuries ago. By comparison, Washington’s Columbia Valley became an AVA in 1984. (Which, contrary to what social media is always trying to tell me, was not really all that long ago.)
Many of the pioneers of Oregon and Washington State wine are still around, and some are still in the business. You can hear them give interviews and walk up to them at conferences. Hearing a living person talk about the establishment of a world-renowned wine region feels wacky–like sitting in a geometry class with Pythagoras sketching out newly-discovered shapes on a stone tablet.
But in the world of wine, that blank slate is quickly filled. Local industries start small–yet the time it takes to establish a typical product is relatively short.
Experimentation dominates for one generation, or maybe two. Soil and climate and market forces collude, and there you have it: A regional wine style that you’re stuck with (barring some sort of seismic change) basically forever.
Ever since the 1980s, the Columbia Valley has made big plummy reds from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A long season gives slow, complete ripening that’s hard to match elsewhere. By happy coincidence, American consumers tend to prefer a wine that’s smooth and fruit-driven. This week’s Merlot is a textbook example of the style: The 2023 Boomtown Merlot by Dusted Valley.
A prodigious basket of black fruit overflows from the rim of the glass, matched by an equally generous pour. Soft black cherry, black plum, brick dust, and damp earth are lifted by a bit of ethanol vapor, subtle vanilla, and a dusting of baking spice. Roasted poblano, chocolate-fountain sauce, and violets sneak in too, adding up to a fairly complex nose that checks all the boxes for a Merlot lover.
It looks and smells rich, dark, and deep–but the palate is gentler, adding extra-ripe red cherry and light cola. Gentle acidity with medium body and medium alcohol. Dense tannins give a lengthy, chalky finish with pressed cherry skins, coffee grounds, and a whiff of campfire smoke.
Dusted Valley is a family-owned producer in the Walla Walla Valley. Boomtown is their entry-level label geared toward restaurant wine lists. The majority of the grapes come from The Cliffs vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, with 10-15% Dusted Valley estate fruit blended in. The blend is Merlot (93%), Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) and Petit Verdot (3%) matured in 20% new French oak. It all makes for a yummy-tasting glass with great Merlot typicity. Drink now.
This week’s #MerlotThursday wine was tasted at The Gibson, a swanky 1920s-themed wine bar that just opened in North Dallas.
Local tip for curious winos and WSET/CMS students: On Monday at happy hour (4-6 PM), Gibson’s offers “Mystery Mondays” rotating house wines. For just $7 you can choose between red or white (or get one of each!) and taste them blind if you like.
It’s a lot of fun, and the wines are more premium than your average happy-hour pour. (We won’t talk about last Monday, when I may or may not have called the 2022 Tempo d’Angelus as a Malbec. 🤷♀️) This Monday I was a gleeful Wine Fairy, having successfully identified both wines–a Bordeaux Blanc and a Ribera del Duero.
Bottle: Boomtown by Dusted Valley Merlot (2023) – Columbia Valley AVA, Washington
Variety: Merlot (93%), Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) and Petit Verdot (3%)
ABV: 13.9%
Suggested retail: $18.99
My rating: 8.9 (out of 10)
Pour yourself a Merlot and join in! Or, see past #MerlotThursday reviews here.
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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