New Zealand’s Oyster Bay is best known for their juggernaut of a Sauvignon Blanc, so it may surprise some readers that they also make a Merlot.
Opening this bottle feels a bit like ordering the burger at a seafood restaurant. A coin toss. It’s either going to be, “Wow–that’s the best burger I’ve ever tasted!” or “Well, I should’ve known better.”
At first pour, it has an assertive–almost acrid–burst of burnt aromas. Toast, smoke, and hot road tar hover like a cloud over red cherry, mint, and baking spices. It’s dry and thin in texture, with medium-plus acidity and moderate tannins that coat the palate evenly. Fresh red plums show up eventually, with a shadow of licorice and vanilla.
The wine improves after being open for 15-20 minutes. However, it’s still marred by its meager fruit concentration and intrusive tar and sulfur notes. Oyster Bay states that they use Bordeaux clone 181, which has its origins in Pomerol–the type of nerdy wine detail that might be interesting if the wine was better.
Not recommended, even at its under-$15 price point. Better to stick with the seafood–and the Sauvignon Blanc.
Bottle: Oyster Bay Hawkes Bay Merlot (2024) – New Zealand
Variety: Merlot
ABV: 13%
Suggested retail: $13.99
My rating: 6.6 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
On Thursdays, we Merlot! You can view archived #MerlotThursday reviews here.
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