Born by happy accident in 17th-century Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon is now the world’s favorite grape. Almost every wine-producing country grows a bunch of it, and almost everybody likes it. It’s no wonder that Total Wine’s “King of Grapes” class always fills the room.
“Always”? Yep, this is the third time I’ve taken “King of Grapes”–but who’s counting?
Most recently, I visited the East Plano store to redeem the bi-monthly class ticket I get as a Total Wine Grand Reserve member. Those free classes are a perk that may be ending for me as Total Wine pares back its rewards program.
But for the time being, I’m happy to take advantage of it. Wine education is expensive, y’all, and I have exams coming up soon.
So if someone invites me to go taste a row of Cabs on a Thursday night, I’m gonna do it. I’m trying to grasp the variety inside and out, forwards and backwards. I’m also learning to lead wine tastings–and so I want to get a feel for what works and doesn’t work in a classroom environment.
If you’re on the fence about whether to sign up for “King of Grapes,” go for it! (Unless, of course, you hate red wine.) Even at the retail ticket price of $20, it’s a great way to get acquainted with some classic Cab styles from around the world.
In the court of the Crimson King
Total Wine’s educational classes are taught by a team of two staffers (a lecturer and a pourer/assistant). You get some light nibbles, a bottle of water, and a booklet with wine facts and room for tasting notes. The class last about an hour and half, during which you try an assortment of products from the liquor chain’s portfolio of wine and spirits brands. I am a loyal subject of King Cab, so I was looking forward to this class in particular.
Our instructor, Tim led us on a journey through several important Cabernet-producing parts of the world: Australia, Bordeaux, Chile, Argentina, Paso Robles, and Napa Valley. Along the way, we tasted eight wines and we each ended the class with a second pour of our favorite.
Topics included the influence of climate on wine style, food pairing, aging Cabernet, and finding value on the wine store’s shelves. His presentation was peppered with corny dad jokes and breezy metaphors that us wine-swilling suburbanites could understand. Brawny, overachieving Cab Sav is “a star quarterback,” Tim said–while fun and easygoing Merlot is “the class president.”
While it’s definitely geared toward beginners, this class is a window into the versatility and likability of Cabernet Sauvignon. Together we learned why its go-anywhere strength, longevity, and powerful fruit flavors have earned it the title of “King of Grapes.”
If you’re a repeat attendee (like me), Total Wine rotates the wine selections so you won’t be tasting the same wines every time. The class is a useful refresher on regional styles–and sometimes you discover a bottle that you really enjoy.
How were the wines? It’s often been said–and I have to agree–that Total Wine’s Winery Direct brands are not terribly consistent. A lot of them seem to be second- and third-tier bottlings from well-known producers. Some regions fare better than others, and many of the best values come from South America.
As my tasting notes from these classes tend to reflect, I find Total Wine’s brands to be often good but rarely great. Still, the in-store sampling program is generous, and the classes (as long as they still exist, anyway) make for a frugal, laid-back date night for winos.
Does Total Wine suck now?
I’m fine with Total Wine, especially for casual, party-friendly bottles. A few years ago, it was indisputably the best booze-selling chain store in North Texas, and it still competes well on selection and price.
I don’t experience the hard-sell tactics that some Total Wine detractors complain about. The salespeople are certainly encouraged to push the Winery Direct brands–but contrary to popular belief, they don’t work on commission. They also get to sample a lot of wine. If you find a staffer whose taste matches yours, then they will point you to the good stuff (of which there is plenty) and away from the obvious crap.
So, I’m no Total Wine hater. (Although these days more and more of my wine budget goes to independent shops.) But I have to admit there’s been a rapid decline in the in-store experience.
Yes, the wine industry is in trouble and they are cutting the fat everywhere they can. Yes, the Dallas suburb of Plano is dealing with some urban problems including homelessness, property tax shortfalls, and a messy, stalled redevelopment of its dead 1990s-era mall. Yes, some members of the public drink too damn much for their own good–and lamentably, you’ll often find them hanging out at liquor stores.
But oh man…this Total Wine location was looking way worse than I remember.
The wine-tasting bar wasn’t open during scheduled tasting hours. The floor staff appeared hurried and stressed. The item I came in for wasn’t in stock, and nobody knew when they’d have it again.
Worst of all, seemingly every surface–from the checkout aisle to the classroom to the bathroom–was papered over with mean signs. The two teachers did a great job of leading the wine tasting, but the overall vibe in the store was kind of sour.
Yuck…it’s enough to make you want to stay home with a nice bottle of Cab. So without further fuss, here are my tasting notes from “Cabernet Sauvignon: The King of Grapes.” Prices are Total Wine’s base price–discounts are usually available in-store and in the app.
The Wines
Coltbridge Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (2022) – South Australia – $13.99
Medium-bodied, red-fruited wine with pronounced herbal aromas. Anisette, eucalyptus, red plum, bruised strawberry, cherry candy, mint. Hint of earth and licorice on the finish–but overall fruity and bright with subdued tannins and a heapin’ helping of residual sugar. Serve this one chilled.
⭐⭐ (out of 5)
Château La Tour de Bessan Margaux (2022) – Bordeaux, France – $29.99
Youthful budget Margaux. Medium purple-red with very high acidity and good intensity of fruit. Blackberry, blackcurrant, and fragrant wood on the nose. Flavors of tart red cherry, black and red currants. Medium-plus in body. Drying tannic finish with some baking chocolate.
⭐⭐⭐ (out of 5)
Eccentric Epic Cabernet Sauvignon (2023) – Argentina – $14.99
Blackberry pie, toast, red plum, dry cinnamon, and wood smoke. Medium everything: Color, body, tannin, and intensity. It tastes of berry jam and tons of vanilla oak. It’s also very sweet. Eccentric is Mascota Vineyards’ entry-level brand for Total Wine and this wine belongs squarely in that category. It’s overripe, over-oaked, dessert-like, and boring. Pass.
⭐ (out of 5)
Carmen Delanz Alto Jahuel Cabernet Sauvignon (2021) – Maipo Valley, Chile – $29.99
Chilean Cab smells just like compost to me…but strangely, it’s rarely a turnoff. Pulped mixed vegetables and wet dirt, coffee grounds, damp leather, bell pepper, and a little black pepper. Fruit takes a backseat here, but there’s some ripe red plums on the mid-palate. Dry. A distinctive violet floral note hovers over all the wet veg, and it ends with just a trace of fresh mint. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (74%), Cabernet Franc (15%), Petit Verdot (8%), and Petit Sirah (3%). Layered and interesting. My fave of the bunch.
⭐⭐⭐1/2 (out of 5)
Crossfork Creek Cabernet Sauvignon (2021) – Yakima Valley, Washington – $26.99
Deep purple and opaque with aromas of blackberry, chocolate, dried herbs (mint, mostly), and orchid. It’s deceptively subdued on the nose, but it packs a punch of juicy fruit flavors: Dark berries, black cherry, and red-fleshed plum. Full-bodied with soft, ripe tannins. Short finish of chewy black plum skin with some lingering bitterness. Although it falls off quickly, it’s rich and delicious right up until the end. Made for Total Wine by Yakima Valley’s Sheridan Vineyard.
⭐⭐⭐1/2 (out of 5)
Truth & Valor Cabernet Sauvignon (2022) – Paso Robles, California – $29.99
Not gonna lie. I first bought this wine for the label (it’s strikingly beautiful) and I keep some in my pantry as an emergency hostess gift for the same reason. People love it! Oohs and aahs were heard around the room as it was poured from its heavy ‘n heraldic gold-embossed bottle.
The wine itself is fine, and quite distinctive on its own. It opens with an extremely pronounced wave of five-spice powder (Sichuan pepper, ginger, star anise). Toasted oak, liquid smoke. (My wife said it smells like BBQ potato chips, which is hard to argue with.) Core flavors of red cherry and red berries smoothed over by some thin caramel. Slight root-y note of cut potato or iris root. Despite the imposing bottle, it’s not a super weighty style. The 19 months in oak lend mostly smoke and spice to this fresh-fruited, medium-bodied Cab. Made for Total Wine by Ancient Peaks Winery.
⭐⭐⭐ (out of 5)
Old Winery Road Cabernet Sauvignon (2023) – Sonoma County-Napa Valley, California – $34.99
Medium ruby with medium-intense aromas of smoke and black and red fruit. The nose is of raspberry, blackberry, and dried cherry with earthy undertones of leather and a hint of green bell pepper. On the palate it’s almost like a mug of Mexican chocolate: Chocolaty oak, cinnamon/cedar, and dried ancho chili blend to create a harmonious, medium-bodied mouthful. I feel like there’s a touch of residual sugar here, too…but with that combination of flavors, it totally works. It’s a dual-appellation wine of Sonoma and Napa fruit, roughly 60/40.
⭐⭐⭐ (out of 5)
1858 by Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon (2022) – Napa Valley, California – $69.99
Lots of Caymus fans in the room and they’re all very happy to see a Caymus option under $100. Big Napa fruit bomb, bringing blackberry, blackcurrant, baking spice, vanilla and toasty oak. Very full-bodied with ripe red and black berries and smooth medium tannins. You may find a little violet shrinking behind the curtains of jam. It’s too thick and sweet for my taste, but a decent buy if you like this producer and this style.
⭐⭐1/2 (out of 5)
I’ve reviewed several other popular, recurring Total Wine classes! Check out reports from So Many Ways to Chardonnay, California Uncorked, and Let’s Explore South America.
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. (Except as a Total Wine membership perk as described above.) Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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