The Wine Fairy

Gather ’round the chuck wagon, ’cause today I’m pouring a 2022 Texas Merlot from Rowdy Creek Ranch.

Located in Gilmer, Texas (about 20 minutes northeast of Longview), Rowdy Creek Ranch is a 450-acre country resort that opened in 2022. A 22-acre winery is on site. The property is equipped with a venue and event space, a fishing lake, stables, and a full-service restaurant and tasting room. Visitors can choose between various rustic lodging options, including three rental cabins and several “glamping” trailers.

Texas-grown wines currently offered include dry, sweet, and sparkling expressions of the hybrid Blanc du Bois, a dry Cabernet, and a sweet sparkling red. (The red wines are from grapes sourced elsewhere in Texas–the Gilmer estate currently only grows Blanc du Bois.) Fermentation, aging, and blending happens on site, and tours of the production facility are available by appointment.

It was through pure chance that I wound up with this bottle. (Literally–I won it in a raffle at a corporate event.) But I’m always excited to try a new Texas wine, so let’s pour a sip and get rowdy!

It’s an intense ruby red color and powerfully fragranced. Ripe and raisined cherry aromas rise prominently from the glass, along with hints of licorice, cola, and black plum. Most intriguingly, there’s a saddle-y horse-sweat aroma, fresh green ferns, and a trace of dusty cinnamon.

On the palate, it displays noticeable sweetness (off-dry to medium dry). Blackberry and cherry jam, and candy-like hints of tinned travel sweets (rosewater and violet) and bubble gum. The body is lighter than expected, dissipating in the mouth to reveal subtle oak-derived flavors of vanilla and spice. There’s a distinctive meatiness throughout–flavors of leather, horsehide and beef gelatin.

These last notes are not unappealing and add some character and complexity to the wine. If wines made from grapes grown on marine fossil beds can taste of seashells, is it so strange for wines from a Texas ranch to taste of livestock?

This Texas Merlot exceeded my expectations. I’ve never tasted anything exactly like it–it’s rich in concentrated cherry with sly botanicals and a little gaminess. That is one of the cool things about Texas wines: Our state is new enough to winemaking that regional styles are still emerging.

Rowdy Creek Merlot is sweeter than I like to drink–but there are fans of sweeter reds and plenty of ways to enjoy them. If hosting, I’d chill this slightly and serve it with strong aged cheeses, or eat it alongside BBQ beef ribs or sauced brisket.

I’m looking forward to visiting Rowdy Creek Ranch one day and sample some more of their wines. At $45, I feel like this bottle is pricey for what it is–but sip it from your front porch while vacationing in the Piney Woods and you might forget to care.

A sweet, meaty wine calls for a sweet, meaty dish–so I prepared boneless leg of lamb braised in wine sauce with smashed gold potatoes. A Southern cucumber salad and simple steamed broccoli rounded out this excellent meal.

Bottle: Rowdy Creek Ranch Merlot (2022)

Variety: Merlot

ABV: 12.5%

Suggested retail: $45

My rating: 7.9 (out of 10)

Further reading:

KLTV: Rowdy Creek Winery holds ribbon cutting

Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.