“Sex is like pizza. When it’s bad, it’s still pretty good.” That same principle does not hold true for 1990s sex comedies–for instance the movie Threesome in which it first appeared. When they’re bad…they’re just bad. But it can be said of certain wine styles. Especially big and bold reds from Mendoza, Argentina.
I actually prefer this version from comic writer Oliver Markus Malloy: “Sex is like pizza: if you’re going to use BBQ sauce, you better know what the f*ck you’re doing.” But Argentine Cabs go great with BBQ sauce, too! So I’ll say it again: Mendoza for the win. It’s hard to go too far wrong with one of their versatile and well-priced Cabernets or Malbecs.
Our pour today is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Cruz Alta. (It’s a “Reserve”–whatever that means. “Reserve” appears to be Cruz Alta’s entry-level Cab, after their “Grand Reserve” and “Chairman’s Blend.”)
I think I got this from Total Wine? And according to their website, the 2023 vintage is out now. So that means it’s been sitting in my wine rack for approximately two years. Time to drink up!
The color is a nice Bordeaux red with a garnet rim. Aromas are mostly red fruit with some dusty blackcurrant. Medium to full body with middle-of-the-road, easy-drinking tannins. This Cab is aged 10 months in 50% new French oak, the barrel time contributing some cocoa, black coffee, and cedar notes.
In short, it’s…all right. Sippable, serve-able, probably quite pair-able. But not that potent or exciting.
To extend the sex metaphor, it’s like a past hookup you remember fondly but never fantasize about. To extend the pizza metaphor, it’s like the neighborhood spot you sometimes order from–but only if all the better pizza places are closed for the night.
Bottle: Cruz Alta Cabernet Sauvignon (2021)
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon (100%)
ABV: 13.5%
Suggested retail: $13.99
My rating: 6.6 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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