If I’ve never tasted a grape variety before and it’s on the WSET Level 3 syllabus, I’m buying it. That’s my shopping strategy from now until my exam date in November. No more safe and familiar Chards and Cabs on the list–I’m going Agiorgitiko to Zweigelt and loving it.
And so, I wound up with this bottle of Agiorgitiko, a native Greek variety that’s widely grown in the region of Nemea. I have to drink it–that that’s the only way I’m going to remember it if it pops up on a test question.
Agiorgitiko (“St. George’s grape”) is one of the most commercially important grapes in Greece. It’s made in a range of styles from light roses (often oaked), to fresh and chillable table wines, to tannic and occasionally age-worthy reds. Agiorgitiko is not the easiest variety to grow or to work with, being disease-prone and very sensitive to altitude. It does best on higher and cooler sites to counter its natural tendency toward low acidity.
As promised, this wine of Nemea was not like anything I’ve had before. The “Flowers” Agiorgitiko from Greek Wine Cellars.
Strange color. Lovely, but strange. It appears vibrant ruby when poured into the glass, but tilting it just a little reveals an orange tint and pink rim. Like a gemstone whose hue and saturation changes depending on how the light hits, the color of this wine left me scratching my head. Ever had a Beaujolais that you forgot to drink and then you found it in the back of your fridge a couple summers later? It’s like that.
I serve it lightly chilled, as recommended. The nose is red fruit punch–a Capri-Sun juice-pack blend of red apple, cherry, and pineapple-stem flavors. It’s very fresh and smells a tad artificial. Spicy notes of rhubarb and cinnamon sticks.
We taste the wine. Zounds! It’s really acidic. My wine textbook says that Agiorgitiko can suffer from weak acidity, but this wine does not have that problem. It’s tart, bordering on sour.
It gets better. Once my eyes have stopped watering, I warm the glass in my hands and taste it again. The indistinct fruity aromas eventually step aside to reveal ground white pepper, warm mulch, bromeliad, and a fleeting floral perfume. The finish leaves behind drying, cranberry-like tannins and almost no detectable sweetness.
Though it tastes a bit off-balance on its own, this wine would likely be a BYOB MVP at your local kebab place. The powerful acidity can stand up to fatty sausages and tangy vinaigrettes, and its warm spice aromas will enhance the taste of meat and vegetables. The medium-bodied, fresh-and-fruity style should appeal to most palates.
All in all, it’s an unusual tasting yet easy-drinking red. I’m glad I tried it, but I’m not sure if I’d seek it out as an everyday drinking wine. To get the most out of Greek wines, I truly believe you have to try them with Mediterranean food.
According to legend, Agiorgitiko of Nemea is what Hercules chugged for courage before facing the Nemean Lion. As for myself, I steeled myself with this wine before doing battle against some lamb and mint koftas and dry-fried chickpeas.
Bottle: Greek Wine Cellars “Flowers” Agiorgitiko Nemea (2020)
Variety: Agiorgitiko (100%)
ABV: 13.5%
Suggested retail: $14.99
My rating: 7 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
Leave a Comment