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Merlot Thursday: “Madame de Beaucaillou” Haut-Médoc (2019)
Merlot’s fortunes are so low that it’s possible to walk into an upscale wine shop and not see a single bottle with the “M-word” on the label. When you ask for help finding a nice Merlot, they will look at you with either pity (as if you have no wine knowledge) or suspicion (as if…
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Merlot Thursday: Backhouse California Merlot (2023)
Late-night happy hours (sometimes called “reverse” happy hours) are superior to regular happy hours in every way. Urban drink-seekers know this. Instead of jumping into rush-hour traffic to (hopefully) find a barstool and catch a server’s attention before the clock strikes 6 PM, you get to slow down. You can finish your daily work and…
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Review: El Pino Club “Sea Floored” Pinot Noir (2021)
Working as a prep cook in a hotel, I used to clean a lot of strawberries. Strawberries for the breakfast buffet, strawberries for the cold line’s fruit plates and salads, strawberries for the pastry shop. (This is a Pinot Noir review–I’m getting to it, I promise. But first I want to tell you about my…
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Merlot Thursday: Château la Grâce Dieu les Menuts Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (2016)
If there is any 2016 Saint-Émilion left on the planet at the end of this year, it won’t be for lack of trying. I have been uncorking these bottles with relish on Thursdays (and other days), and they are consistently tasting just right. Want a sip of this vintage? Then you’d better hurry. Château la…
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Review: Ciavolich Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (2023)
Montepulciano was a grape that I thought I’d left in the distant past: The carafes of soft, plodding table wine ordered alongside spaghetti and mozzarella sticks. To a college-age Wine Fairy, “Montepulciano” sounded sophisticated and worldly. It seemed like a step up from the house Chianti in the wicker basket, if only because it was…
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Review: Château La Rose de Vitrac Bordeaux Blanc (2024)
Imagine this: You’re in a less-than-ideal wine shop in a new city and you don’t recognize any labels. You have $20 in your pocket. You’re meeting up with friends…and there’s someone who maybe doesn’t drink red? You have no idea what you’re having for dinner. What’s your move? If you said “white Bordeaux,” then great…
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Merlot Thursday: Salentein “Portillo No. 06” Uco Valley Merlot (2020)
Among wine drinkers, Argentina’s Uco Valley is almost synonymous with Malbec. Malbec’s growth, largely driven by international demand, has been heroic–more than 800% since 2004. The mountainous terrain allows this dark-skinned, intensely fruity variety to produce wines that also show elegant floral aromas and firm acidity. The emergence of Malbec as Argentina’s principal grape has…
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I tried all the wines on the drink package! Here’s the lowdown on 23 of Princess Cruises’ house wines.
Gangway crossed, drink package purchased, Princess Medallion® in hand. It was time to attempt a feat of exploration and endurance: Tasting all of the available wines before disembarkation day on a 7-day Caribbean cruise. Buying the drink package presented an irresistible opportunity. Normally, I have to pay for the glasses and bottles I review for…
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Review: Masi “Bonacosta” Valpolicella Classico (2022)
Rare bottles are nice and all. But sometimes your mood (or your wallet) pulls you in a different direction–toward clunky glassware, red-sauce pasta, and BYOB. Wine can be part of the occasion without being the occasion. Valpolicella knows this, and is a gracious guest at almost any table. My bottle of the night is a…
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Merlot Thursday: Reclos de la Couronne Montagne-Saint-Émilion (2022)
Every week, following the example of a loose community of online wine nerds, I stop whatever I’m doing and drink a Merlot. There are two main reasons for the exercise: One, I’m trying to train my palate to recognize subtle differences in terroir and winemaking by becoming overly familiar with one variety, and two, Merlot…
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Merlot Thursday: Early Mountain “Eluvium” Virginia Red Blend (2017)
Today’s #MerlotThursday wine is a rare treat: A classic Bordeaux-style blend from the rocky and steep terrain of the Blue Ridge mountains. The marker is Early Mountain Vineyards, a boutique producer in Madison, Virginia. They are specialists in structured red blends from Bordeaux varieties, sometimes with the addition of Tannat. Merlot anchors two Early Mountain…
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Merlot Thursday: Cantina Il Cavaliere “Ottavo” Bianco di Merlot Ticino (2023)
Bonjour from France! I’m at Wine Paris, the world’s leading wine and spirits event. Over three days, more than 6,000 exhibitors from 60 countries fill the Porte de Versailles convention center with a truly mind-boggling amount of wine. How many different Merlots are waiting for me in this sprawling plaza of exhibition halls? Considering that…