This year is the 50th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris–the famous 1976 wine competition that humbled French oenophiles and made Napa Valley famous. For months, my wine calendar has been full of “France vs. United States”-themed classes and tastings.
The exercise throws you straight into the deep end of the philosophy of winemaking. Can terroir truly be tasted in a bottle? When American winemakers attempt Old World styles, is it mimicry, homage, or re-invention?
But also: It’s a really good excuse to open a bunch of wines and taste them side by side. Et pourquoi pas?
Last night, I considered opening both a Champagne and an American sparkling wine for my own little Transatlantic competition. But on second thought, one quality bottle was enough of a splurge for a weeknight.
So I reached for Emmolo No. 8, a consciously French-styled sparkling wine from Napa’s Wagner Family. Like many historic Champagne houses, Emmolo blends fruit from different years to achieve a consistent house style. Instead of naming its non-vintage cuvées, Emmolo numbers them, with each new edition advancing the count by one.
No. 9 was released on December 15, 2025, at a special launch event at Caymus-Suisun. Locally, it’s No. 8 that’s still on shelves.
Tasting Emmolo No. 8
It’s elegant, starting with its looks: All burnished gold with pink undertones that match its rosy foil capsule and calligraphic green script. The trefoil label is one part Ren faire, one part wedding inspiration board, signaling a wine that is meant to be both timeless and celebratory.
Its aromas are a feast for pastry lovers, with shiny baked croissants, Scottish shortbread, and almond biscotti. Soft yellow fruits (including yellow apple, baked lemon, and apricot) are brushed with brown butter. That sweet, fat noseful is punctuated by small, lively bubbles that ply you with even more buttery promises.
You take a sip–and just like that, the bread basket is whisked away and replaced with a side of fruit. Meyer lemon, white peach, just-ripe green apple. Crumbly tea biscuit and a touch of bitterness in the form of charred oranges and almond skins. The wine’s high acidity is counterpointed by a pleasantly ripe finish with yellow raisin and apricot.
Inspired by fine Champagne, Emmolo sees extended lees aging (around 38-40 months). Winemaker Jenny Wagner customarily includes a portion of barrel-aged Monterey County Chardonnay in the blend to amplify notes of vanilla, toast, and butter.
The overall experience is like walking by your favorite bakery and being content with a whiff from the doorway. All those pastry aromas don’t follow through on the palate–but the transition isn’t a jarring one. With its scant-to-moderate Brut dosage (estimated 6-7g/L) and medium-bodied style, this is a wine that effectively splits the difference between indulgence and restraint.
Though the winery is headquartered in Napa, the grapes for Emmolo’s sparkling wine are sourced from California’s cooler coastal regions (90% Monterey County and 10% Santa Barbara County). Cuvée No. 8 is 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir. The current release (No. 9) uses a higher percentage of Chardonnay.
Now, for the “Judgment of Paris”-inspired question: Could I (or even a more experienced taster) mistake this for Champagne in a blind tasting? Absolutely.
True, the Chardonnay component has an air of California-girl blondness in its yellow apple and buttercream aromas. But the acidity is dialed up to where Champagne drinkers expect it to be. It’s that almost-piercing ray of brightness that might lead you to call, “Champagne!”
In short, this is a very enjoyable, admirably balanced bottle of bubbles. It’s refreshing without tasting hollow, rich without being cloying. It would be equally welcome as a festive toast with shellfish or smoked-salmon canapés, or as a multi-course hero at the dinner table.
Bottle: Emmolo “No. 8” Méthode Traditionnelle California Sparkling Wine (NV)
Variety: Chardonnay (54%), Pinot Noir (46%)
ABV: 12%
Suggested retail: $39.99
My rating: 9.1 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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