When a weather delay turns your 40-minute flight into an 8-hour sojourn at Houston Hobby, then it’s time to wine. For atmosphere, I wanted a little taste of Galveston, so I grabbed a barstool at The Spot. For wine, I was looking for something red that wouldn’t turn my mouth every shade of purple. I settled on Sea Sun California Pinot Noir.
This is maybe the third time I’ve tasted Sea Sun. It’s on the Caymus flight at Seasons 52 (yes, Sea Sun is made by the Wagner Family and restaurants are very keen to call it “Sea Sun by Caymus”). I’ve also had it as a happy hour somm’s selection at CRÚ. Neither my wife nor I are really Pinot-heads, but I was pushing for rosé and she vetoed it. So this was a compromise bottle.
Sea Sun ended up being the perfect choice for this occasion. Its translucent rich ruby color aroused delight after quite a long afternoon of looking at TSA blue. The initial aroma was strange–sweet carrots and beets–but soon evolved into a fruit-punch mix of red plum, cranberry, and cherry all laced together with smooth oak.
On the palate, it does that flat cola, Pinot Noir thing. (It sounds iffy, but I mean “flat cola” as a compliment–there’s ripe plum and cinnamon-vanilla flavors punctuated by pleasing acidity.) Both tasters detected a tinge of toasty smoke and wet-leafiness on the finish, but overall this is a fruit-driven, user-friendly Pinot. Its juice-box flavors are redeemed by its easy-going tannins and subtle spice character.
I tried it at room temperature, right off the rack above the bar. I think it’s better lightly chilled– but it’s an airport bar so what are you going to do? This quaffable bottle–and the friendly and attentive bar service–helped turn a long delay into a surprisingly enjoyable afternoon.
Sea Sun Pinot is a soft, approachable wine that’s equally enjoyable with or without food. (The airport kitchen was too understaffed to serve for their coastal Tex-Mex menu, but in the past I’ve had Sea Sun with grilled trout and California-style soft tacos.) It’s not complex, but it’s bright and balanced. This would be a good Pinot Noir to select for a barbecue or dinner party, because it’s got something to offer to wine nerds and wine beginners alike. It retails for about $16-$20. A fair price, if maybe a little inflated due to the Caymus association.
Houston Hobby doesn’t have a lounge that serves alcohol, so I was on my own for the bar tab. Fortunately, Southwest Airlines sent me a goodwill voucher for the flight delay that more than covered my wine expenses–thanks Southwest!) I paid $60 for the bottle plus tax and tip. That’s really not too bad, especially for an airport bar with an $18 house margarita. For reference, Seasons 52 sells Sea Sun for $52/bottle in my area.
When I’m not grounded at a departure gate at Hobby, I generally prefer bolder reds. But if I have to choose between missing out on some tasty tannins or having to brush my teeth in an airport bathroom, I can save the Malbec for another day. All in all, Sea Sun is a fruity, versatile California Pinot Noir ideal for sharing or for passing the time.
Bottle: Sea Sun California Pinot Noir (2022)
Variety: Pinot Noir (Monterey County and San Luis Obispo County)
ABV: 14.4
Suggested retail: $19.99
My rating: 7.5 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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