Some things are revered as classics for no good reason: White trousers, Star Wars (fight me), the Monte Cristo sandwich. Other things are actually paragons of excellence, but are so mundane that they go unnoticed and unappreciated: The Toyota Camry, the eight-inch chef’s knife, the ordinary Cheez-It.
And then there is Champagne. Champagne is beloved and flashy. Champagne receives a lot of praise and attention from the lips of wine lovers. And Champagne is also very, very good. Reputation and quality occasionally converge–and when they do, they taste something like this.
Tonight’s Champy treat is 100% Chardonnay from various parcels in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, from which the wine takes its name. The well-draining chalk slopes of the Côte des Blancs region are regarded as one of the very best places in the world to grow Chardonnay with bright flavors and long aging potential. Le Mesnil is made by a local co-operative and provides a taste of this exceptional terroir at a far lower cost than the big famous houses.
A brassy, festive gold color with a frothy raft of medium-fine bubbles. Aromas of tart green apple, lemon peel, Southern biscuit dough, and soda cracker/baking soda. A powerfully intense, structured palate. High acid and medium in body with a long, mineral finish, packed with flavors of lemon curd, crème fraîche, exotic citrus (pomelo or yuzu), and saltine cracker.
After a little while in the glass, some subtle floral, nutty, and herbal notes show up, perfectly complementing its apple-y crispness: Jasmine, blanched almond, fresh hay, and sweetgrass (coumarin). It’s not especially thick or bready, but it feels rich–a mouthful of bubbles and a nibble of sweetness providing relief from its driving acidity.
This Blanc de Blancs is made in a restrained, barely-Brut style (6g/L dosage). Le Mesnil is aged for a minimum of three years in the cellar and includes some reserve wine (10% as of the current bottling) from previous Chardonnay vintages. Delicious stuff, great value, and a justifiable classic.
Wine nerds will rib the hell out of me for pouring half of this nice bottle of Champagne into a flute. But Sarah wanted to drink it from a flute, and happy wife = happy life. We enjoyed it at Lavendou Bistro Provençal with their house-made pork terrine, asparagus with bechamel sauce, and roasted duck over wild rice.
Bottle: Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne (NV)
Variety: Chardonnay (100%)
ABV: 12.5%
Suggested retail: $55
My rating: 9.2 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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