Beer for breakfast and wine for lunch–this is how you pass a wintry day in San Francisco. Today, I have tasted everything from cinnamon-sugar pumpkin ale in a toasty brick basement at Fisherman’s Wharf to vegan gluten-free beer (made with sushi rice) at a queer-friendly microbrewery in North Beach.
And before strolling off to reconstitute myself with hot tea and pizza and dim sum, I decided to squeeze in one more tasting. I wandered into Eco Terreno Urban Tasting Room, the city outpost of the Eco Terreno Winery in Sonoma.
Located at the northern end of Alexander Valley, Eco Terreno is an organic and biodynamic-certified estate. (The vineyard was established in 1970 by Rodney Strong. The 2017 vintage marked the completion of its organic conversion and certification.)
Just under 100 acres of vines are planted across two vineyards, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc leading. Eco Terreno’s holistic approach to winemaking includes creating a haven for wildlife and insects, and the integration of livestock and cover crops to promote the health and resilience of the land. A special series of “Purpose Wines” gives back to causes including climate change awareness, social justice, and disaster relief.
That winery description may say “farmers market”–but the tasting room says “high modern design.” Eco Terreno’s wines are poured in an impeccably outfitted three-story building (complete with a dining room and basement speakeasy). Just steps from San Francisco’s Financial District and Chinatown, it’s available as a rental space for parties and events.
In the tasting room, it’s bright and hushed–almost sterile, with glowing pendant lights and resin tabletops. The cloud-blue upholstery and marbled panels set off the golden nectar in bottles lit from behind and below. A honeycomb motif pays subtle homage to the winery’s resident honeybees.
With just a little time to spend here before my next foodie quest, I won’t be able to taste it all. I order the white wine flight ($30): Three estate Sauvignon Blancs and an estate Chardonnay.
The 2019 Luna Llena is up first. It’s zesty and lean on the palate, but with a heady fragrance: Guava, citrus crème, and white florals leading into flavors of tart green apple and mineral freshness. This Sancerre-style expression is made exclusively from a Loire Valley clone (it’s number 378, you nerds) and was aged for a brief time in neutral oak barrels. As the name suggests, the grapes were harvested during the full moon.
I have a soft spot for barrel-aged and old-vine Sauvignon Blanc, and so I approach the 2019 Old Vine with high expectations. Oh my stars! It’s stunning. Medium lemon in color with green highlights, it overflows with aromas of lavender blossom, mixed citrus (lemon zest, grapefruit, tangerine), lemon verbena, and beeswax. Full(er) in body and impressive in length, it glides across the tongue with green melon and teasing hints of spicy fennel and pollen. This one is harvested from 47-year-old vines and aged 4 months in neutral French oak barrels. (I flag down the bartender and order a full glass for my partner so I don’t have to spare even one sip from my tasting.)
The 2020 Lantana Sauvignon Blanc comes next as a palate cleanser, bringing mellow citrus (satsuma, lemon curd), light green melon, green guava, and boxwood. A sparkling mineral finish of concrete dust, yuzu, and grapefruit with high acid make this one a mouth-watering interlude before the final course.
The 2019 Cultura Chardonnay is a toasty and full style complemented by distinct citrus and tropical flavors. Aromas of orange crème, butter, and lightly toasted almond. Medium acidity with notes of orange marmalade, brûléed pineapple, and a creamy macadamia-nut finish. It strikes a balance between richness and freshness through a series of exacting winemaking choices: Partial malolactic (31%), barrel fermentation (French oak, 31% new), and blending with 20% Semillon.
Eco Terreno is a must-visit for wine travelers, particularly those interested in organic and biodynamic winemaking. A serene atmosphere and exceptional wines make it a wonderful place to pass an hour in San Francisco…especially for lovers of Sauvignon Blanc.
“Sauvy B” has become, for better or worse, the woo-girl wine of millennial drinkers: High volume and indistinct–our generation’s buttery Chardonnay. But it can still reward careful attention from the winemaker and taster. With heritage clones, purposeful yeast selection, and restrained use of oak, Eco Terreno is crafting white wines of concentration, precision, and depth.
Where: Eco Terreno Urban Tasting Room, 140 Columbus Ave., San Francisco, CA 94133
How much: Tasting flights (four wines) $30-$40, wines by the glass $12 (white) and $15 (red).
Wines tasted (prices are retail):
Eco Terreno “Luna Llena” Sauvignon Blanc (2019) – $27 – Alexander Valley, California
Eco Terreno “Old Vine” Sauvignon Blanc (2019) – $22 – Alexander Valley, California
Eco Terreno “Lantana” Sauvignon Blanc (2020) – $27 – Alexander Valley, California
Eco Terreno “Cultura” Chardonnay (2019) – $27 – Alexander Valley, California
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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