I can’t afford to drink Champagne every day, alas–but at least there’s Crémant. I always keep a Crémant or two in the fridge, and open them without a second thought. If Champagne is designer evening gown, hanging in a closet and awaiting a gala occasion, then Crémant de Loire is like a favorite sundress: Floral, flattering, and easy to dress up or down.
De Chanceny Crémant de Loire Brut was a recommendation from David, the bartender at Whole Foods. (Yes, my Whole Foods has a bar. It’s amazing–I’ll wax rhapsodical about it another time.) It’s a blend of hand-harvested Chenin Blanc (65%), Chardonnay (20%), and Cabernet Franc (15%) from the Loire Valley.
In the glass, it’s very pale yellow. The nose is blossomy and apple-scented with just a hint of pie crust. In the mouth it has lovely fresh acidity–all green-apple tartness at first, accompanied by a warm citrus note of orange zest or orange liqueur. There’s a very mild sweetness contributing body and balance. As the bubbles dissipate and the glass warms, it evolves beautifully into round fruit flavors of green pear, golden pineapple, and passion fruit.
The core of this wine is Chenin Blanc, which provides its primarily fresh, floral character. There’s some Chardonnay for body and lees-y aroma (it’s not bready on the palate at all), and Cabernet Franc for extra fruit and structure. Everything is in the right place in the wine, and in the right proportions. It’s a bit delicate–could be good or bad, depending on your taste–but with impressive length and no “off” flavors. Everyone at the table was reaching for another glass.
The winemaker suggests pairing it with hors d’oeuvres and cheese platters. I served it with a giant-ass roast chicken dinner, and it was perfection with herb stuffing, buttered yeast rolls, and gravy. It was a bargain at around $16, too. I’ll be drinking this wine again this summer–and remembering it at Thanksgiving time.
Bottle: De Chanceny Crémant de Loire Brut (NV)
Variety: Chenin Blanc (65%), Chardonnay (20%), Cabernet Franc (15%). Aged 18 months before disgorgement.
ABV: 12.5%
Average retail: $16.99
My rating: 8 (out of 10)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
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