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Review: Ciavolich Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (2023)
Montepulciano was a grape that I thought I’d left in the distant past: The carafes of soft, plodding table wine ordered alongside spaghetti and mozzarella sticks. To a college-age Wine Fairy, “Montepulciano” sounded sophisticated and worldly. It seemed like a step up from the house Chianti in the wicker basket, if only because it was…
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Merlot Thursday: Salentein “Portillo No. 06” Uco Valley Merlot (2020)
Among wine drinkers, Argentina’s Uco Valley is almost synonymous with Malbec. Malbec’s growth, largely driven by international demand, has been heroic–more than 800% since 2004. The mountainous terrain allows this dark-skinned, intensely fruity variety to produce wines that also show elegant floral aromas and firm acidity. The emergence of Malbec as Argentina’s principal grape has…
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Review: Masi “Bonacosta” Valpolicella Classico (2022)
Rare bottles are nice and all. But sometimes your mood (or your wallet) pulls you in a different direction–toward clunky glassware, red-sauce pasta, and BYOB. Wine can be part of the occasion without being the occasion. Valpolicella knows this, and is a gracious guest at almost any table. My bottle of the night is a…
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Merlot Thursday: St. Supéry Rutherford Estate Vineyard Merlot (2021)
I’ve pinched myself a bunch of times today, but it hasn’t worked. This is no dream…I really am in California. It’s the last full day of the Wine Writers’ Symposium in Napa Valley. It’s just after sundown. And there is excellent wine everywhere. Earlier today, I woke up in a cottage on the side of…
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Napa Zin for the win: A visit to Robert Biale Vineyards
Trying to choose just one winery to visit in Napa Valley is a torturous exercise, like buying a single scoop from an ice cream shop with dozens of bins. Whatever you pick, it’s sure to be good. But choosing Pistachio means passing up Boysenberry and Black Walnut and Lavender Honey–there’s only so much flavor you…
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Merlot Thursday: Reclos de la Couronne Montagne-Saint-Émilion (2022)
Every week, following the example of a loose community of online wine nerds, I stop whatever I’m doing and drink a Merlot. There are two main reasons for the exercise: One, I’m trying to train my palate to recognize subtle differences in terroir and winemaking by becoming overly familiar with one variety, and two, Merlot…
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Merlot Thursday: Early Mountain “Eluvium” Virginia Red Blend (2017)
Today’s #MerlotThursday wine is a rare treat: A classic Bordeaux-style blend from the rocky and steep terrain of the Blue Ridge mountains. The marker is Early Mountain Vineyards, a boutique producer in Madison, Virginia. They are specialists in structured red blends from Bordeaux varieties, sometimes with the addition of Tannat. Merlot anchors two Early Mountain…
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Merlot Thursday: Martin Ray “Courtney’s Cuvée” Merlot (2021)–and the trouble with wine on tap
The quest to bring back Merlot got a boost this week from a delightful “Sideways Effect” piece by Willa Paskin for Slate: “For years, many believed that one tiny movie brainwashed American wine drinkers forever. The truth is weirder.” All the biggest questions and juiciest details are in that article: Is it true that one…
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Under $12 Review: 14 Hands “Stampede” Bold Red Blend (2022)
Critter label? Check. Screw cap? Check. All signs say that a casual, fruity wine is on the table tonight. And here we are: The “Stampede” Bold Red Blend from 14 Hands. 14 Hands is owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and is Washington’s second largest winery (after Ste. Michelle itself). Ste. Michelle created the 14…
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Merlot Thursday: Dubourdieu “Liaison” Graves Red Bordeaux Merlot (2022)
As Winter Storm Fern wraps up her national tour, I’m stuck inside for a couple more days. (I love you, Dallas–but your roads don’t function with snow and sleet.) On the plus side, there is plenty of wine at home. In fact, it’s about time I got around to tasting some of these bottles from…
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Review: Malbado Luján de Cuyo Malbec (2019)
“Malbado” means “the bad one,” but this Mendoza Malbec actually wasn’t so bad. I pulled it from my strategic wine reserve (that is, the rack full of old Total Wine bottles) to uncork in the middle of a winter storm. Yes, this is a Total Wine private label wine with all the tell-tale signs: Big…
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Review: “Ex Post Facto” Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir (2024)
Five bottles were on the table at the Brewer-Clifton tasting on Tuesday. Winemaker Greg Brewer was pouring. On the way to his next event, he graciously stopped by my table, accused me of hiding in the corner, and chatted for a few moments about these acclaimed craft wines from Santa Barbara County. I do hide…