Just over an hour from Paris is a city of wonders both sacred and profane. Above ground: The extraordinary Reims Cathedral, its Gothic spires piercing the sky. Below ground: Over 150 miles of chalk tunnels lined with an estimated 200 million bottles of Champagne.
To walk among the dusty bottles is a wine lover’s dream. Fortunately, many producers allow the Champagne pilgrim to do just that–descend into the tomb-like cellars, then re-emerge for a jolly toast. With only a few days in France, I couldn’t miss the opportunity. I reserved the first day of my trip (an apertif, if you will) for a full-day tour with the Paris-based tour company My WineDays.
Our tour began early in the morning, with a croissant and a quick drive from Paris. Having beaten traffic and arrived in Reims early, we squeezed in a visit to the awe-inspiring Notre Dame de Reims. It’s as chilly and damp as the cellars and also cut from the local stone. Heavily damaged during World War I–you can still see the pockmarks from shells on the outer wall–the lavish cathedral is a reminder that opulence and struggle have long co-existed side-by-side in this frontier city.
One of the features (I think it’s a feature) of organized tours is that you don’t usually know in advance what spots you’re going to visit. The tour company consults the wineries and makes arrangements subject to availability. All I knew is that we were going to visit one large Champagne house and one or two smaller ones during our time in the region.
But who would we be calling on? Many of the world-renowned Champagne producers are headquartered here: G.H. Mumm, Pommery, Roederer, Ruinart, Taittinger, and Veuve Clicquot. I would’ve been thrilled with any of them–all Champagne is good Champagne–but our tour guide and sommelier Huw let us know that our first morning appointment was at Mumm.
Our small group checked in at reception. We then descended 15 meters down the slippery stairs and into the belly of this famous Champagne house.
The Mumm cellar experience was one of the best winery tours I’ve been on. It was information-dense by necessity (there’s a lot to cover with the méthode champenoise), but also vivid and historical. As we crept through the maze of cellars, we learned about the evolution of Mumm’s production methods, from wooden casks to concrete tanks to modern stainless steel fermentation.
An impressive amount of historical equipment has been retained in this section of Mumm’s tunnel system. The long gallery of antique presses, baskets, riddling racks, labeling benches, dosage machines, and so on, is a potent reminder of just how physical the Champagne-making process is. The number of hands and devices that must touch the wine contribute to its special intrigue–and to its cost.
Despite the hushed, museum-like atmosphere of the winery on a Saturday, Mumm is, of course, a large and active producer. The annual production (around 8 million bottles) means that the cellars echo during the week with the sound of forklifts moving palettes of wine. The corridors are lined with large-format bottles for forthcoming releases marked with dates and blend numbers. (These bottles don’t fit the riddling machines and so they still must be turned by hand to remove their sediment.)
I could’ve stayed for hours in this wondrous subterranean temple. But the tour came to an end and it was time to go back upstairs for a closing treat: A tasting of Mumm’s “Grand Cordon” Brut Champagne.
“How do you like your Champagne?” Huw had asked me at the start of the tour. He emphasized to everyone in our group that picking the right Champagne is all about understanding your individual taste: For fruit, for sweetness, for acidity.
I rattled off some general preferences: I like a traditional blend (with a healthy dose of Pinot), a depth of fruit, nut, and floral aromas, crisp but not bracing, not too young and not too dry. “You will enjoy Mumm!” Huw said, and he was right.
Reims is Pinot Noir country, and so black grapes make up a significant portion of Mumm’s signature wine. The non-vintage “Grand Cordon” is 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 25% Pinot Meunier with up to 30% reserve wine in the blend.
A charming gold color with an apricot cast, my glass held energetic bubbles and fruity aromas of golden apple, peach, and apricot. Meyer lemon, butter croissant, and apple/citrus blossom contribute to a delectable, dessert-y nose. The palate adds pear and ginger, and the pastry aromas recede, replaced by a tinge of caramel and spice. Approachable and balanced with firm acid, medium body and lovely intensity. The Grand Cordon’s Brut dosage (8g/L) is just right for its soft orchard apples and stone fruit. It’s brightened by a generous citrus-peel finish with a trace of minerality.
A great day is one that starts with Champagne–but this quest for bubbles was only beginning. Our group bounded back to the van for a short drive to the other Champagne capital, the town of Épernay.
I’m at Wine Paris for a few days–but when I return home, I’ll have lots more wine stories to share! Bookmark or subscribe to The Wine Fairy…or move along to Champagne Road Trip: Part Two.
What: Champagne Small-Group Tour with Wine Tastings and Lunch (from Paris)
Who: My WineDays
How much: From €310 (about $375) per adult 18+. Includes booking fees and taxes, all scheduled tastings, lunch, and pickup from hotels in Paris and drop-off in central Paris. Does not include additional wine or optional driver gratuity.
Wines tasted:
G. H. Mumm “Grand Cordon” Brut Champagne – $55 (suggested retail)
Review disclosure: I was not compensated or provided any free products for this review. Opinions expressed on The Wine Fairy blog are entirely my own.
Leave a Comment