Assyrtiko is having a moment–and for fans of aromatic, mineral-driven white wine, that’s great news.
As fresh and food-friendly as Sauvignon Blanc but with a character all its own, Assyrtiko is native to Greece. It’s grown in other parts of the Mediterranean–including Lebanon– and has even spread to the New World.
Assyrtiko is simply delicious, combining floral, citrus, and mineral flavors. It’s also a plant with a remarkable story. Ancient, hardy, and versatile, Assyrtiko’s unique history and traits truly make it stand out in the pantheon of grapes.
So the next time you’re savoring a glass at an oyster bar or Greek taverna, here’s some Assyrtiko trivia to bother your dining companions with.
1. Assyrtiko likes it rough.
Assyrtiko’s true home is the island of Santorini (officially called Thera). There-a, it thrives on the rocky outcroppings and windswept hills of the picturesque port-of-call. Santorini experiences strong, dry summer winds and occasional storms that blow in from the Western Mediterranean.
But Assyrtiko is one tough islander. It’s evolved for centuries to withstand gusts that would shake off the buds and tear the leaves of lesser grapes.
As Greece Insiders bluntly puts it, “This ‘terroir’ is any other plant’s hell.” The rocky soils contain almost no organic matter and even weeds struggle to survive.
Santorini’s soils were formed by a mostly-submerged Aegean volcano that last erupted in 1950. (It’s still considered active.) Visiting tourists may get nervous about hiking around the sleeping caldera–but Assyrtiko makes itself right at home in its mineral-rich, well-draining volcanic soil.
Doesn’t this pale little grape get sunburned, or thirsty? Nope. The long, hot Mediterranean summers are no problem for drought-resistant Assyrtiko. Its deep roots chase water into the crags–which further serves to anchor the plant to its turf.
2. It’s ancient–and mysterious.
Wine consumers worldwide are most familiar with classic French grapes varieties. These include Cabernet Sauvignon, a crossing which was created in Bordeaux in the 1600s, and Pinot Noir, which likely originated in Roman Gaul in the First Century CE.
Those are some pretty old crops–but they have nothing on Greece’s indigenous varieties. Many of these native Mediterranean grapes have been essentially unchanged for thousands of years.
Assyrtiko’s name suggests to some theorists that the grape may have origins in Assyria. But that’s really just linguistic speculation. Assyrtiko’s DNA hasn’t revealed family connections to grapes from the Middle East or anywhere in Europe.
According to the wine encyclopedia of wine.plus, Assyrtiko’s parents are two practically unknown and near-extinct grapes called Gaidouria and Platani. But genetic testing hasn’t revealed how Assyrtiko came to inhabit Santorini–only that it has occupied its island home for basically forever.
3. Its flavors are a natural pairing with seafood.
Assyrtiko is a coastal grape variety that often displays sea salt and lemon flavors–which makes seafood pairings a no-brainer. Try it with octopus salad, fried calamari and grilled whole bass.
But don’t lock Assyrtiko into that “white wine with fish” box. Its robust acidity and pronounced aromatics mean that it’s not intimidated by most dishes. For a more adventurous pairing, try Assyrtiko as a refreshing palate-cleanser between bites of richer Greek fare, like creamy dips, fatty spiced sausages, and lamb.
4. It’s a bit of a basket case.
Santorini’s grape-growers have developed a unique vine-training method that isn’t common anywhere else in the world. The vines are curled in upon themselves in bird’s nest shapes known as koulouria (“coils”) or stefani (“crowns”).
The buds and grapes grow inside the “nest,” which shelters them from fierce coastal winds and burning sun. As new green shoots emerge, they may be incorporated into the woody wreaths, some of which have been rooted on their rocky perches for ages. A typical commercially farmed Assyrtiko plant is 40-80 years old. But some vines on Santorini can live much longer, even 200-300 years.
At harvest time, bunches of grapes must be hand-harvested from the steep slopes. It’s a slow and laborious process. All this additional effort contributes to the cost of wines from Assyrtiko, but also to their quality.
5. It can masquerade as Chablis (and other fancy wines of France).
According to Wine Enthusiast, even experienced tasters can mistake Assyrtiko for Chablis in blind tastings. With its punchy acidity, lemony flavors, and lip-smacking mineral character, it can indeed resemble those lean Chardonnays from the north part of Burgundy.
Tasters who aren’t expecting to find Assyrtiko in their glass sometimes even call it as a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. When made in a bone-dry style, Assyrtiko can resemble Sancerre in body and salinity. Assyrtikos from volcanic soils can also mimic Pouilly-Fumé’s telltale notes of flint and gunsmoke.
What does this mean for you, O normal wine drinker who doesn’t care a whit about blind tasting? Your familiarity with Assyrtiko can still work to your advantage. How? Everybody knows that Chablis and Sancerre are great seafood wines–especially restaurants, who love to mark up these wines far beyond their actual value. (Sorry, Sancerre.)
If you’re dining at a nice seafood joint and you see Assyrtiko on the menu, that bottle is usually a smart buy reserved for those who know. Take it as a thrifty gift from the gods of wine and snap it up.
6. Assyrtiko has a sweet side.
A typical wine made from Assyrtiko is dry, crisp, and fairly high in alcohol. It’s generally intended for early drinking, although some high-quality examples have the ability to age.
But Assyrtiko has a lesser-known expression, a sweet wine known as Vinsanto. (It’s spelled this way to distinguish it from the Vin Santo of Tuscany.)
To make dessert wine, Assyrtiko grapes are late-harvested and partially dried in the sun, further concentrating their flavors. Assyrtiko is usually blended with other native grapes (particularly Aidani, which imparts intense citrus flavors.) Premium examples of Vinsanto are aged in French oak from anywhere between two and 20 years before release. Due to their high acidity they can age in bottle for much longer.
Santorini Vinsanto is very rare, but it’s a treat if you can find it in your local market. (Or taste it on a Greek vacation!)
Vinsanto is characterized by a viscous body, complex aromas, and refreshing tartness. It can taste of dates, figs, honey, and orange marmalade–often with spices and caramel from oak aging. It’s best served lightly chilled in small cups as an accompaniment to cheese and pastries.
7. It’s putting down roots in Lodi.
Santorini has a hot Mediterranean climate, with long summers and warm evenings throughout the growing season. Among its many superpowers, Assyrtiko is prized for its ability to retain acidity even in the searing heat of the Greek isles.
But Assyrtiko’s heat tolerance is no longer a local secret. Growers around the world are seeking out varieties that can produce quality wines on a warming planet.
Lodi, California is perhaps best known for its heavy, spicy red wines including Zinfandel and Cabernet. A lot of Chardonnay has historically been grown there, as well.
But as the climate changes (and white wine drinkers embrace aromatics), small growers have begun experimenting with heat-tolerant white varieties. Beginning in the 1990s, Albariño saw explosive growth in Lodi and other warm California regions.
Now, perhaps, it’s Assyrtiko’s turn. As a high-acid variety that retains its floral and citrus characteristics, it’s the perfect wine to go along with California’s warm summers and the state’s preference for light and fresh cuisines.
We’re big admirers of Assyrtiko and glad to see this vibrant white grape attracting wider interest. Whether you’re lucky enough to try it on scenic Santorini, or at a wine bar near you–cheers and happy drinking!
Further reading:
Greece Insiders: Santorini Wines: A Story of Survival
Santorini.net: Notes on the characterstics of Santorini wine and its food pairing ability
Lodi Wine: Everything you need to know about Assyrtiko, a Lodi wine of the future
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