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Review: Truchard Carneros Napa Valley Chardonnay (2023)
To drink a glass of well-made Chardonnay is like taking a short walk on a sunny afternoon. Is it thrilling? No. Are you going to tell a story about it at your next cocktail party? Probably not. But it’s pleasant. It’s wholesome. And when you’re finished, you feel a little glow inside–like you just ingested…
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Merlot Thursday: Backhouse California Merlot (2023)
Late-night happy hours (sometimes called “reverse” happy hours) are superior to regular happy hours in every way. Urban drink-seekers know this. Instead of jumping into rush-hour traffic to (hopefully) find a barstool and catch a server’s attention before the clock strikes 6 PM, you get to slow down. You can finish your daily work and…
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Review: El Pino Club “Sea Floored” Pinot Noir (2021)
Working as a prep cook in a hotel, I used to clean a lot of strawberries. Strawberries for the breakfast buffet, strawberries for the cold line’s fruit plates and salads, strawberries for the pastry shop. (This is a Pinot Noir review–I’m getting to it, I promise. But first I want to tell you about my…
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Merlot Thursday: St. Supéry Rutherford Estate Vineyard Merlot (2021)
I’ve pinched myself a bunch of times today, but it hasn’t worked. This is no dream…I really am in California. It’s the last full day of the Wine Writers’ Symposium in Napa Valley. It’s just after sundown. And there is excellent wine everywhere. Earlier today, I woke up in a cottage on the side of…
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Napa Zin for the win: A visit to Robert Biale Vineyards
Trying to choose just one winery to visit in Napa Valley is a torturous exercise, like buying a single scoop from an ice cream shop with dozens of bins. Whatever you pick, it’s sure to be good. But choosing Pistachio means passing up Boysenberry and Black Walnut and Lavender Honey–there’s only so much flavor you…
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Merlot Thursday: Martin Ray “Courtney’s Cuvée” Merlot (2021)–and the trouble with wine on tap
The quest to bring back Merlot got a boost this week from a delightful “Sideways Effect” piece by Willa Paskin for Slate: “For years, many believed that one tiny movie brainwashed American wine drinkers forever. The truth is weirder.” All the biggest questions and juiciest details are in that article: Is it true that one…
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Review: “Ex Post Facto” Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir (2024)
Five bottles were on the table at the Brewer-Clifton tasting on Tuesday. Winemaker Greg Brewer was pouring. On the way to his next event, he graciously stopped by my table, accused me of hiding in the corner, and chatted for a few moments about these acclaimed craft wines from Santa Barbara County. I do hide…
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Merlot Thursday: Decoy by Duckhorn California Merlot (2022)
It’s time for some Merlot on this Merlot Thursday! 🍇 Today’s Merlot was tasted at a Duckhorn dinner at Carrabba’s Italian Grill in Dallas. Decoy by Duckhorn is one of the restaurant chain’s two permanent by-the-glass Merlots. (The other one is Bogle, which was our #MerlotThursday pick a few months ago). Duckhorn has been a…
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Wine Road Trip: Sonoma County in winter
The hills were gray and damp, but the mood was jolly. Twelve wine lovers were gathered into a big white van–not friends just yet, but soon to be. “Who’s ready for wine this morning? Everybody!” We made introductions and sipped hot Americanos from a café stop in Sausalito, right over the Golden Gate bridge. We had…
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San Francisco’s Queen of Sauvy B: Eco Terreno Winery
Beer for breakfast and wine for lunch–this is how you pass a wintry day in San Francisco. Today, I have tasted everything from cinnamon-sugar pumpkin ale in a toasty brick basement at Fisherman’s Wharf to vegan gluten-free beer (made with sushi rice) at a queer-friendly microbrewery in North Beach. And before strolling off to reconstitute…
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Merlot Thursday: Hayes Ranch California Merlot (NV)
Ah, California Merlot. The unsung hero of countless wedding banquets, airport lounges, and (ahem) company Christmas parties with an open bar. We talk like Merlot went away sometime in the early 2000s…but really, it never did. It just shuffled off to the back bar to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and the…
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Review: Gloria Ferrer Carneros Blanc de Noirs (NV)
A plush pink bubbly is the wine treat of the day: The Blanc de Noirs from Gloria Ferrer. I’m taking a quick break in downtown Sonoma, just a few miles from Ferrer Caves & Vineyards. Gloria Ferrer is the original sparkling wine producer in Carneros (established in 1982). And so the name of the wine…